Surf Girl – July 2019

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48 SurfGirl Magazine


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ayne, when you started surfing in the 90s,
did you ever envisage that you would
become a surfing icon?
It’s not something I consciously set out to
achieve; however, I was committed to being a positive
role model and holding myself accountable for the way
I behaved. Fortunately, I grew up free of the intrusion
of social media and smartphones! This allowed me to
play up, grow up and make mistakes that became very
valuable life lessons.


You had a turbulent life growing up – do you feel this
helped your competitive streak?
There is no doubt that it contributed to my competitive
nature and feisty spirit. Growing up in Manly taught me
many valuable lessons – clarify my vision, surround myself
with good people, stay true to my values and never give
up. Life is defined by how you choose to respond.


From 1998 to 2006 you made surfing history by
winning seven world titles, six of them consecutively



  • do you think that Steph Gilmore can beat this
    anytime soon?
    Steph always saw me as a stepping-stone, and I have
    no doubt she will smash my record. She claimed her 6th
    world title at the same age I won my first, is currently on
    her way to winning her 8th world title and is showing no
    signs of slowing down – so I imagine Kelly’s 11 world titles
    will be firmly in her sights. She is the most incredible surfer,
    a wonderful human being and a fantastic role model for
    surfing, so I’m grateful to have competed with her and to
    hand the baton over to someone so talented, beautiful and
    respectful.


What was the hardest lesson you had to learn when
competing on the world tour?
Learning how to lose was definitely one of the toughest,
but also necessary as it established the foundation for
winning.


What did you want your future to look like post world
tour?
Exactly how it is now. Surfing nearly every day, maintaining
the freedom to travel and explore parts of the world I never
got to see during my 19-year professional surfing career.


My passion for surfing, for health and wellbeing, for giving
back and for personal growth, are guiding me to live a life I
love, by design, not by default.

Did you struggle to adjust to life, not on tour?
Retirement was the biggest leap I have ever taken, and
the transition took many years. I had identified myself as a
professional surfer my whole adult life. Then, at 36 years of
age, after 19 years of travelling the world and being paid to
go surfing, it all came to a grinding halt. I lost my sense of
identity, of belonging, of direction, and ultimately, my sense
of self-worth. I experienced relevance deprivation because
I felt like my career didn’t matter to anyone. Many years
later, I realised the only person it really needs to matter to
is me.

How did you channel your energy after retiring from
competitive surfing?
Apart from chasing the tour and an elusive 8th world title,
I was the founder and director of my own charity called
Aim For The Stars Foundation. I was staging the richest
surfing event on the WCT – The CBA Beachley Classic


  • and I had my own clothing brand, so there was never
    any chance of boredom or waiting for the phone to ring.
    The WCT event kept me engaged in the sport, and my
    charity was extremely rewarding, but the clothing brand
    didn’t ever light me up. It folded in 2013, the same year I
    decided to end the WCT event. Embracing change and
    overcoming challenges are the most valuable skill sets I
    acquired from surfing.


How has surfing helped you with your role as a
public speaker and author?
The women’s tour in the 90s was treated as a sideshow,
so to generate any attention or media coverage, I had to
become a storyteller. Now, as a motivational speaker, I am
asked to share my story with audiences around the world,
which I thoroughly enjoy. We all have a story, and the gold
is in our ability to share it in a meaningful and impactful
way.

Congratulations on becoming the first female winner
of the WLS Masters Championships! Did this win
spark your competitive flame and will we see you
sporting a jersey in any competitions this year?

Life is defined by how you choose


to respond.

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