50 SurfGirl Magazine
Thank you! I was so stoked to win that one and receive an
8th world title trophy at the WSL crowning in March this
year. That event kindled so many memories and certainly
ignited the competitive spark. However, the WSL is yet to
commit to staging the event again this year, so we shall
see what the future holds. I treasured the opportunity to
catch up with my peers and friends, but I’m equally happy
surfing with my mates at home.What’s the biggest wave you rode and do you still
charge the big stuff when it’s on?
Big waves have always been a passion, but I don’t
chase them around the world like I once did. I still enjoy
challenging myself in big surf, and I managed to catch a
couple of 8-10ft bombs while surfing at Sunset last winter.
However, I am quite content surfing my local beach breaks
at home in Sydney. In 2000 I was towed into a couple of
50-foot waves on the North Shore of Oahu at a spot called
Outside Log Cabins.How much has women’s surfing changed since you
competed?
Hugely: The way women surf, dress, are represented in the
media, the way they are now encouraged and supported
by their male counterparts and the surfing industry, and the
introduction of pay equity, are some of the most significant
changes I have witnessed since I joined the tour in 1990.You’re very involved in good causes where does this
come from?
The majority of our values emanate from voids, but I have
always had the passion to give to others. This world
is currently experiencing an empathy deficit, so I am
dedicated to supporting the needs of people who are
experiencing hardship, to prevent them from enduring
the same challenges I encountered. This also stems from
reflecting on the tough years on tour, when I was so close
to winning a world title but struggling to generate financial
support. I was working 60-hour weeks in four different
jobs, was rated #2 in the world and earning $8000 from
my sponsor, which made life extremely challenging.How often do you surf these days – is it still part of
your everyday life?
My intention is to surf every day, but my work and travelschedule prevents this. The ocean is my happy place,
and I love surfing today more than I have ever loved
it – probably because I am completely detached from
expectation and competition.Do you feel concerned about the future of the planet
today?
Extremely concerned. Our ‘leaders’ of the free world are
placing profits over the planet. Greed, short-term thinking
and denial is negatively impacting every single one of us,
and we have begun to witness the catastrophic impact of
climate change, globally. We all have a role to play, and we
all have the power to make a difference, through simple
actions such as reducing your red meat consumption,
using public transport, refusing all single-use plastic, and
supporting companies who are investing in renewable
energy.If you have one piece of advice to share with anyone,
whether it’s in the surf, in life or even work, what
would it be?
Surfing is a wonderful analogy for life – where you look is
where you go. Keep your eyes up and allow your gaze to
rest on the horizon.Getting the surf bug, four year old Layne.The ocean is my happy place, and I
love surfing today more than I have
ever loved it.