Surf Girl – July 2019

62 SurfGirl Magazine

I

lived near the beach. I just saw the waves and

had to have a go. I just wanted to surf and that’s

what I did. Being a female surfer in the 60s, it

wasn’t as competitive and aggressive as it is now.

Why should men have all the fun when women can have

it too? When you live in a small town, the locals know you

and have respect for you in the surf, and they love to see

women surfing.

When I was in my forties I contracted Ross River Fever

and lost the strength in my arms, so stopped surfing until I

was in my fifties. When I got my strength backthat’s when

I decided that surfing is what I wanted to do forever.

Surfing is life. I have a daughter and three grandsons

that also surf, and a few close surfing buddies. We all have

a great life. I still work in the hospitality industry. I exercise

every morning and night, go walking and ride an exercise

bike. I like to go swimming, when I was young I was a

Country Swimming Champion.

I surf because I love to surf. There’s nothing as good as

starting the day with a surf. I love being in the water and

I find that it clears the head – you don’t even think about

any of your problems when you are surfing.

Looking back at my younger self, I would tell myself

to enjoy my life and make the most of it. And alsoto be

myself and not try to be anyone else. Every day is a new

day; yesterday has gone. So don’t worry about tomorrow,

live for the day.

Australian surfer

Robyn Strano began

surfing in 1963 and

was one of the first

female surfers in her

area. Now in her 70s,

Robyn still has an

amazing infectious

energy and love for

surfing. Here she

shares her gratitude

for the simple things

in life – an inspiration

for to us all.

SURFING

LIFE

70s

I would say don’t

worry about age

and what you look

like, just get in the

water. Have a go.