T R AV E L
PAR I Statler.com Tatler September 2019 139WHERE TO STAY
Hôtel Ritz Paris Always a very stylish refuge from
the world, The Ritz’s magic-carpet ride begins the
moment you step off the plane. Guests are met by
members of the hotel team, who whisk them
through security and into a blacked-out Mercedes.
And you can never go wrong with a night holed up
at Bar Hemingway. Like Rick’s Café in Casablanca,
everyone goes there in the end – especially for the
Clean Dirty Martinis and the French 75s, which are
mixed to perfection by legendary Head Barman
Colin Field. This grande dame is, after all, the
grandest in the world. ritzparis.com
Hôtel de Crillon This marbled Xanadu of a hotel,
sparkling with Baccarat chandeliers, continues to
wow with its Versailles-worthy interiors, from the
gold-mosaicked swimming pool to its palatial suites
that occupy whole floors with unbeatable views of
the Concorde’s obelisk, not to mention the heavenly
frescoes of the Les Ambassadeurs bar. This summer,
the Crillon will be raising the glamour stakes even
higher, with a pop-up bar dedicated to the Negroni,
which features a yacht moored in front of the hotel’s
Cour Gabriel at 10 Place de la Concorde.
rosewoodhotels.comstone’s throw from the Eurostar
terminal and reopens this month
after a meticulous restoration with
lashings of art deco splendour.
Then there is the burgeoning
scene in the historic and grand 16th
arrondissement, thanks in part to the
Holiday Café (holiday-paris.fr), which
was conceived by Franck Durand
(husband of Emmanuelle Alt, Editor
of French Vogue). It attracts a well-
heeled crowd, who are drawn to the
pared-back, classic French menu.
Septime (septime-charonne.fr),
meanwhile, has paved the way for
haute cuisine in a minimalist, almost
Scandinavian setting, where the only
unnecessary complication is a reser-
vation: there’s a three-month wait for
a table. Around the corner is the
small and sweet Septime Cave, where
an intriguing array of biodynamic
French wines are served – naturally- with a superb selection of artisan
cheeses. Close by is Le Dauphin
(restaurantledauphin.net), a stylish,
monochrome bar and restaurant,
also adored by those in the know.
Last but not least, Lapérouse
(laperouse.com), the beloved Left
Bank institution, still serves the
city’s most beautiful sole meunière,
recently reopened with even more
gilded glamour thanks to a boost
from LVMH. Billionaire Bernard
Arnault still dominates the cityscape
with his construction projects – not
least his pledge of $226 million to
reconstruct Notre Dame. Arnault is
also restoring the art deco beauty of
shopping mall La Samaritaine, which
will house the brand’s first Parisian
hotel, Cheval Blanc (chevalblanc.com).
There’ll be one of the city’s most
impressive swimming pools and 72
loft-style suites overlooking the
Seine, which will no doubt offer a new
perspective on city life from 2020.
Not to be outdone, François-Henri
Pinault, Chairman and CEO of the
Kering Group, is also making a
definitive mark on the city with
supreme architect Tadao Ando’s
reimagined Bourse de Commerce
museum, which will display the
group’s mammoth contemporary art
collection when it opens later this
year. However the skyline changes,
we’ll always have Paris.
The definitive guide to Paris’ best addresses
By DELILAH KHOMOLa Réserve This ‘mini-grand’ once belonged to the
Duc de Morny, Napoleon III’s half-brother, and still
feels like part of the old world. From the pool to
the smoking room, La Réserve exudes seductive
glamour (a signature trait of designer Jacques
Garcia) felt especially in the gilded surroundings
of the two-Michelin starred restaurant, Le Gabriel.
Views from the Eiffel Suite are the capital’s finest.
lareserve-paris.com
Le Bristol With its murals by Thierry Bruet, Aubusson
tapestry by Charles Pinçon and new suite designed
by Bertrand Lavier, the exquisite art is one of the
many delights at Le Bristol. Linger at the rooftop
pool, where you can try the restorative Russian
Banïya, or retreat to the bar for a Sea Vesper
cocktail. Don’t miss the restaurants – both Épicure
and 114 Faubourg are excellent, thanks to four-star
Michelin chef Éric Fréchon, who has introduced his
own flour mill to make the best gluten-free bread,
and an in-house chocolatier. oetkercollection.comWHERE TO GO
By MARIE WINCKLER
Cafe Kitsuné At the back of the Galerie de
Montpensier, this is the most perfect breakfast spot,
where you can order a gluten-free cake from Noglu
with a matcha tea or indulge in a Martine Lambert
ice-cream with which to wander through the Palais
Royal’s romantic rose garden. maisonkitsune.com
Kodawari Tsukiji Housed in the former home
of cult restaurant Chez Dave, this immersive
gastronomic experience is the latest offering from
the Kodawari Ramen team. At Kodawari Tsukiji,
highlights include a signature ramen with scallops,
yuzu, monkfish, sea herbs and sardines from Brittany,
plus refined deserts, including waffles stuffed with
matcha and praline cream. kodawari-ramen.com
Le Grand Colbert At this much-loved gem,
waistcoated and aproned waiters waltz between
tables. This classic Parisian brasserie – with its
high ceilings, red velvet curtains and deep leather
booths – has a menu that hasn’t changed since
it opened in 1830. Expect classics such as snails,
onion soup and the best roast chicken in the world.
legrandcolbert.fr
Clamato This teeny but perfectly formed restaurant
from Michelin-starred chef and owner of Le Septime,
Bertrand Grébaut, is centred around sophisticated
seafood classics, paired with delicious wine.
clamato-charonne.frWHERE TO PLAY
Le Serpent à Plume During the day, 24 Place des
Vosges is home to a chic concept store, complete
with its own art-house library and gallery. Come
nightfall, however, it turns into one of the city’s best
kept secrets: a speakeasy, flush with raffish glamour,
Seventies-inspired Vincent Darré interiors and
Mezcal-fuelled fun. serpentaplume.com (Brasserie JulienHôtel Alfred SommierCapital gains09-19TRAVEL-Main.indd 139 17/07/2019 15:18