THE LOOK
114 PRESTIGE J U LY 2019
She cites the rutilated quartz used in the Aphélie
necklace – a 68.85ct cabochon whose shape mimics the
elliptical orbit of a planet around the sun (the name
references aphelion, the point in a planet’s orbit when it is
farthest from the sun). Transparent, but taking a
chocolatey or silky gold hue due to dense clusters of rutile
(titanium dioxide) inclusions shooting through it, this
gemstone is described by Karachi-Langane as having
captured the sun’s rays.
This whopper is set into a necklace with fancy coloured
diamonds, and a dancing fringe of diamonds and mottled
morganite beads tipped with red coral and onyx in an Art
Deco style. She calls this a solar design that “makes us
travel to the sun”.
The Équinoxe necklace, on the other hand, is a
“precious nebula” of blue lapis lazuli planets and moons,
and a constellation of yellow, orange and white diamond
stars. An unheated 15.48ct yellow Ceylon sapphire, its
natural intensity flashing with hints of orange, is the sun
around which these celestial bodies gravitate. (Yellow
sapphires, incidentally, are believed in astrology to be from
Jupiter, the largest planet in our solar system, with
79 known moons of its own.)
“The lapis lazuli beads are especially exquisite,”
Karachi-Langane says. “When we discovered them for the
first time, we were impressed by their blue colour, pure and
intense, with very fine golden pyrite inclusions, evocating
the cosmos.”
COLOURFUL HISTORY
This is not the first time that a jeweller has done the high-
low combination. Semiprecious stones have gone through
the crests and troughs of popularity cycles through the
ages. Cartier itself has a long heritage of using hard and
ornamental stones for their colours, energy and symbolism.
Agate, rose quartz, moonstone and aventurine were used in
objets d’art since the early 20th century. Clear rock crystal
“The Théia necklace comprises an
exceptional set of seven round emeralds
from Colombia, incorporated at the heart
of rock crystal motifs, layered in a
stepped architecture”
— Karachi-Langane
Théia necklace (opposite page) in
platinum with seven round Colombian
emeralds totalling 46.09cts, carved
rock crystals, onyx, black lacquer and
brilliant‑cut diamonds. The detachable
motif on the clasp can be worn as a
pendant (above), and the set includes
a matching ring and earrings