JULIE DUPOUY
Sommelier and co-creator of Exsto Cognac
Cognac often has the unfortunate label of being
“an old man’s drink”. French sommelier Julie
Dupouy upends this perception by working with
CEO of Exsto Cognac Sabrina Duong to produce
a less oaky, and more perfumed and fruit-forward
style of cognac. Dublin-based Dupouy, who won
every edition of the Best Sommelier In Ireland
competition since 2009, worked with 15 small
producers from the Cognac region, chose only
eight of the most unique eaux de vie — some
were rare drops from the early 1900s while
others had been hidden from the Germans who
raided private cellars during World War II — and
worked with seventh-generation master blender
Géraud Vallantin-Dulac to create the selection.
Two years of trials yielded two distinctive blends:
the Exsto Cognac Elixir and the Exsto Cognac
Or Impérial, of which there are only 5,000 and
888 bottles respectively. “When you work for
a big cognac house,” says Dupouy, “it’s about
recreating the same style all the time. For us, our
style is based on purity and elegance for each
cognac. Once the bottles are finished, the next
one will not be like it. It’s really about creating
something unique all the time.”
Mixed
Memories
“The Elixir reminds me of
family holidays in summer,
where flower fields were
in bloom around my
house and garden, and
we’d go by the Atlantic
coast, where the breaking
of the waves releases a
scent of iodine in the air.
There is also a lot of ripe
fruit in it that reminds me
of my picking blackberries
in summer.”
Sharp Senses
“My dream was actually
to work in the perfume
industry. Smell is the only
sense that brings back
memories and emotions,
so I’m highly connected to
my sense of smell. I worked
a lot on the cognacs
with my nose, as their
aromatic profile was very
important to me.”
“When we put together the
Or Impérial, it literally gave me
goosebumps. It has flavours of
raspberries, candied sugar and
violet, which bring back favourite
childhood memories of eating
candied apples at funfairs”
All-day Drink
“Add ice to the cognac and have it as
an aperitif on a warmer day, or take it
neat after dinner. We’ve also created
a cocktail with the Elixir called Fleur
d’Elixir, which is based on lavender, rose
and Angostura bitters, and egg white.”
MY SPIRIT DRINK
70 PRESTIGE JULY 2019 | #prestigewinedine
TEXT: GRACE MA | PHOTO: JAMES HOSE JR/UNSPLASH (ATLANTIC COAST)