SHOOTING THE COAST II / ISSUE 3 2019 / 57apocalyptic roar of greater L.A. commuter traffic in the
near-darkness.
Even at this ungodly time of the morning, all five lanes
of the northbound freeways were either stopped or mov-
ing at the sluggish pace of a well-fed python, so we largely
split lanes for two hours before breaking free somewhere
north of Mulholland Drive on Highway 101.
But ah, the smells of the early morning freeway! I’d
almost forgotten. Oil refineries, welding shops, jet fuel
from LAX, mysterious and possibly carcinogenic solvents,
grease-fire smells from fast-food joints—all mingled yet
distinct. The great city wakens and stirs. It’s actually
rather exciting, because several million people have just
had their coffee and are now on the move, making things
and doing stuff.
And then there are the cars. Teslas! A somewhat rare
sight in our home state, these cars filter through the cur-
rents of L.A. commuter traffic like salmon on the Colum-
bia. Porsches, Lamborghinis, and older classics that rusted
away 40 years ago in harsher climates.
All very stimulating, but chilly. At least for Mark on
his unfaired Harley. He had that slightly hunched riding
position of one whose neck is growing shorter with each
passing mile. Not so for Barb and me. We’d discovered
minutes after leaving the hotel the damp morning chill
would not be a problem.
The R 1250 RT has heated grips that can be adjusted
from pleasantly warm to “My gloves are on fire!” It also
has an electrically adjustable windscreen that goes up
from full-flow ventilation to an almost noiseless cocoon of
warmth and still air. The lower bodywork directs most of
the wind blast away from your legs.
And a first for both of us was the heated seat. HowOPPOSITE: Think of the R 1250 RT as the smaller of the big—in
the sense that it is light and not overly large in the touring class.
ABOVE: It’s impossible to ride across Bixby Creek Bridge without
getting a few photos.