the hinge to rattle like a rock in
a bucket. All these problems can
be eliminated by soldering a steel
block to the barrel, allowing the
forearm to fit correctly.
Begin with a small piece of half-
inch-thick cold-rolled steel plate.
This is cut and filed to a length of
about one inch (not critical) and
a width equal to the height of the
post on the barrel. All surfaces
must be as square to the cold-
rolled faces as possible. Now turn
the half-inch edge up and drill a
hole of the same diameter as the
post down through the center of
the block.
The newly drilled block is now
dropped over the post. Note the
bottom of the block is flat, and the
barrel is round. The block must be
reshaped with a half-round file un-
til it matches the barrel. Take the
time to get this as close as possi-
ble because the better the fit, the
stronger the solder joint.
Now for the most important
part: Remember, the forearm
moves in an arc as it is pushed
down into place on the barrel.
If the rear surface (toward the
breech end of the barrel) of the
new block remains at a right an-
gle to the barrel, the forearm can
fit no better than it did on the orig-
inal post. If, however, the rear sur-
face is angled forward 10 degrees
(about .1 inch), the arc of the fore-
arm is compensated for. The fore-
arm can now be fit solidly to the
block. This is exactly the method
used on 99 percent of all break-
open guns ever made.
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The rear of the new anchor block
(toward receiver) is tapered 10 degrees
to allow the forearm to sit properly on
the barrel.