Oxfordshire Limited Edition – August 2019

August 2019 |OxfordshireLimitedEdition| 177

FOOD DRINK

tositdownandprepareandeatlunch,or

you’renotgoingtobotheratall.”

YoumayimaginethatsimpleItaliandishes

aredeliciousbecausetheingredientsare

betterorfresher,butWallacesaysthat’sa

commonmisconception.“InItaly,theydon’t

havefreshtomatoesinwinter,theymake

passata,theyusetinsoftomatoes.

“Whatyouneedtodoisstartrelyingon

tinnedtomatoes,vegetablesinoil,tinned

tuna.Allofthesethingsaregoodandthey’re

cheap.Ifyou’vegottinsoftomatoes,tinsof

fishinbrineoroilandyou’vegotflour,then

you’vegothundredsofdishes!”

‘They’vetaughtmehowtomakepizzadough–

Ican’trollitroundthough,minestilllooks

likeamapofAfrica’

Gavrocheandhesaid,‘Theoilistoohot’.
SoIkepttryinganditkeptsplitting.Anna’s
mumcamealongandputaspoonofmilkin
it,anditjustemulsifiedbeautifully,”hesays,
laughing.“MichelRouxnil,ReniSterpinione!
They’vetaughtmehowtomakepizzadough

• Ican’trollitroundthough,minestilllooks
  likeamapofAfrica,”headds.
  “They’vetaughtmehowtomakefresh
  pastainminutes.Anna’staughtmebetterfish
  cooking,she’staughtmebettermeatcooking,
  she’staughtmeeverything.Andherdad?I’ve
  neverseenanybodycooksquidlikethaton
  thebarbecue,andhisrabbitisoffthescale.
  Thatmanjustbarbecues,hewasn’tbrought
  upwithastove.”
  InItalianhomes,it’sasmuchaboutthe
  actofpreparingamealasitiseatingit.“Her
  familyhavetaughtmetojustslowdown,”
  saysWallace.“It’seitheryou’reproperlygoing

L

Gregg’sItalianFamilyCookbookis

publishedbyMitchellBeazley,

priced£ 20

octopusbooks.co.uk