Mother Earth Living – September-October 2019

38 motherearthliving.com

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|^ GOOD TO KNOW |

Choice Cultivars

There are dozens and dozens

of garlic cultivars, including

fascinating heirlooms. Instead of

listing the numerous cultivars,

I’ll outline the various groups to

set you on your journey. When

searching for cultivars, note each

one’s flavor profile, which can

range from mild to scorching hot.

Hardneck Garlic

✽ PURPLE STRIPE GROUP:

Purple-striped cloves with strong

garlic flavor. Midseason.

✽ PORCELAIN GROUP: Large bulbs

with pure white, papery skins. Late.

✽ ROCAMBOLE GROUP: Cloves

with loose, papery skins and

brownish flesh. Midseason.

Softneck Garlic

✽ ARTICHOKE GROUP: The most

common garlic found in supermar-

kets. White skin. Early to midseason.

✽ SILVERSKIN GROUP:

Long-keeping storage type

with mild flavor. Late.

Planting Garlic

Garlic prefers a neutral soil pH,

from 6.5 to 7.0., and is a heavy feeder.

If you want large, healthy garlic

bulbs, you’ll need fertilizer. The most

common mistake home growers make

is assuming that because garlic is a bulb,

it doesn’t need food. Garlic might look

completely healthy when aboveground,

but what’s truly important is the bulb

formation underground.

As with any bulb plant, garlic yields

depend on high phosphorus in the

soil. A fertilizer in the 5-10-5 range is

good, as it offers an additional kick of

nitrogen and potassium, along with

additional phosphorus. While the

nitrogen needs of garlic are higher than

other vegetables, they’re not as extreme

as that of onions. An organic source

(preferably fish-based) is adequate.

Look for 5-0-0 or higher.

In an 8-foot-long trench, loosen the

soil 12 inches deep. Sprinkle ½ cup of

fertilizer into the trench about 5 inches

deep, and cover with an inch of soil.

This holds the plants through winter by

providing extra nutrients for deep roots.

While some plants sprout in autumn

and others in spring, there’ll be plenty of

root growth happening for all. As soon

as the plants emerge in early spring,

side-dress another ½ cup along each

side, 3 inches from the emerging growth.

Continue to add through midsummer,

stopping a month before harvest (in July

in most of North America), as an excess

of nitrogen during bulb formation can

negatively affect bulb size.

FALL PLANTING

Traditionally, garlic is planted in

the fall, which allows the bulbs to form

roots and establish themselves, much

like other autumn-planted bulbs. The

ideal time in the autumn depends on

where you live: In the Mid-Atlantic,

this may be as early as mid-October, or

as late as November. In cold climates,

plant garlic just as the leaves are

changing, but before hard frosts freeze

the ground. Some garlic cultivars begin

growing foliage almost immediately

after planting, so don’t be alarmed to

see green growth as early as November.

SPRING PLANTING

Garlic can be planted in the early

spring. If you’re waiting until spring

to plant, store the bulbs in a cool, dry

environment that’s below 40 degrees

Fahrenheit for at least four weeks

prior. If vernalizing in a refrigerator,

be careful, as anything producing

ethylene gas, such as apples, can affect

the bulbs’ ability to sprout. Garlic crops

planted in spring are slower to emerge,

delaying harvest by a couple of weeks.

Order garlic sets by midsummer for

sowing in October, as garlic cloves

need time to root, if not grow, a bit

before hard freezes occur.

As a garden plant, garlic is surprisingly

easy to grow and highly productive. It has

the added benefit of growing when

many beds lie fallow.

GARDEN HERBS