Woolworths_Taste__January_2019

TRAVEL

NAMIBIAhasalwaysbeen
definedbytheNamib,whichtranslates
as“vastplace”,anamegiventothis
coastaldesertbytheindigenousNama
people.IthasalsobeencalledtheLand
GodMadeinAngeranda“sh*thole
country”byacertainUSpresident.
It’sneverbeenrankedhighasafood
destinationthough,whichisstrange
whenyouknowwhatIknowabout
theculinarydelightsonoffer.
Let’s start in the coastal town of
Lüderitz.AwhiteHollywood-stylesign
onthehillsidewelcomesmetothisodd
little outpost, which I’ve chosen for two
reasons. Number one is the deserted,
much photographed, diamond-mining
townofKolmanskop.Standinghereat
dawn,earlyrayssparklingoffthesand,
it’seasytoseehowNamibiaearned
itsname.Whatusedtobeabustling,
wealthytownhasbeenreclaimedby
thedesert.Iwanderthesandyruinsand
wonderhowaghosttowncomesto be –
what made everyone disappear?
T h e G h o s t Tow n To u r o n l y s t a r t s
at9.30amsoIorderacupofcoffee
topped with a sweet foam spray of cream,

andafreshlybakedlemonmeringue

pieinwhatusedtobeKolmanskop’s

Champagne Bar. This is breakfast,

ghost-town style.

Later,onthetour,Ilearnthatthefirst

diamond was discovered here in 1908

and exploitation of these glittering dunes

started immediately. The first miners

built the impressive village, sandwiched

betweentheseaandthesand,replicating

the architectural style of a traditional

German town. There was a ballroom,

school, bowling alley, casino and even

anicefactory.Backthen,inthemiddle

ofthedesert,youcouldfindthesouthern

hemisphere’s first X-ray station, ice and

Champagne. And the last two go perfectly

with the second reason for visiting.

From ghosts to gourmet ... modern-

dayLüderitzistheplacetogetyour

fix of Namibia’s non-indigenous but

delectable oysters. Oyster farming started

inthetownalmost30yearsagoandthe

molluscsarenowoneofNamibia’sbiggest

exports. Luckily, not all of them leave

thecountry.Youcanalsoenjoythem

direct from the source (a.k.a. the local

Seaflowerfactory)atthehumbleDiaz

CoffeeShop.Here,inasmallbackroom

linedwithawallofwinebottles,chairs

fashionedfromoldorangebuoysand

tables made from disusedkreeftraps,

youcanindulgeyouroysterfantasies

atanaffordableR11apop.Eachshell

holdsaperfectmorselalongwithalittle

clearliquor,theofficialnameforoyster

juice.Ieasilyswallow10,seasoned

withjustadashofTabasco.

Themenualsooffersavarietyof

cooked oysters, loaded with butter and

garlicorchilli,plussomeincredible

calamari.Aplateoftender,perfectly

grilled rings seasoned with lemon and

blackpepperandservedwithchips

will set you back a mere R25.

Sunrise views over the edge

of the Namib Desert from the

Dune Star Camp.

108 TASTE JAN/FEB 2019

“It’s easy to forget

you’re in the

desert when you’re

devouring platters

of oysters with

a good South African

Chardonnay”