Woolworths_Taste__January_2019

(Nancy Kaufman) #1
TOP SA BARS

TASTE JAN/FEB 2019 93

trendsbutwewanttoevokeCapeTown
andwhatmakesitunique,”saysJustin.
SothedrinksatCauseEffectarebased
on fynbos, which weaves together Cape
Town’s three primary natural domains:
ocean, mountain and vineyard.
It’s from the vineyard that the


cocktails receive their base ingredient:
brandy,strictlypot-stilledandagedfora
minimumofthreeyears.“Capebrandy
isnowrecognisedasaworldleader,and
wehaveanamazingbrandyculture,”
saysJustin,referringtotheSouthAfrican
braai staple, brandy and Coke, “but
thetwoaren’toneandthesame,so
we have to reinterpret the story and
re-educate without sounding preachy.
That’s a challenge.”
It’sanambitiousmissionbutifthe
cocktailshereareanythingtogoby,
perhaps not as quixotic as it sounds.
Theideaistogivepatronsthecocktail
equivalentofathree-coursemeal.Start
your evening with a classic Campari
spritz imbued withumeshu(a Japanese
plum wine) or cold-brewed coffee and
vermouth. It’s a low-alcohol, effervescent


apéritiftodrinkwhileyouperusethe
menu. For mains, it’s all about the
experientialcocktailsthatbringyour
drinktolife.Thesearealluniqueconcept
concoctions, dreamed up from scratch
by Justin and his merry mixologists.
“Theymighthavenamesthatyoucan’t
pronounce but not because we’re hoity-
toity,” says Justin, “but because you
might not have heard of something like
Artemisia before.”
Here’swhereyou’llspottheCape
Sugarbirdcocktail,namedafterthebird
responsible for pollinating South Africa’s
national flower, the Protea, which last
evolvedsolongagothatbeesalonecan’t
do the trick. The brandy used is the Oude
MolenXO–agedfor10years–andit’s
draped with fynbos honey, dusted in
hibiscuspowder,dappledwithapinch
ofpollenandinjectedwithpearpurée
(locally sourced, of course). It’s served
inabespokeblownglasssugarbird
that’splacedonanestofhay.
TheMembranecocktailisserved
topped with a sugared rice disc ‘lid’
andJustinsaysyouneedtwoqualities
to drink it: courage and patience.

“Courage,becauseyoudon’tknow
what’slurkingunderthemembrane,
andpatiencebecauseittakesuptofive
minutesforthemembranetodissolve.”
Feelingadventurous?Trythethree-
tieredcocktails,theBeetrootBrandy,the
GreenCubemadeofmintandcucumber,
thesourmartiniwithahotchutney
foam,theemulsifiedavocado,orthetall
moringa and eucalyptus drink that shoots
outstreamsofChristmasspice.
Andthat’sbeforeyougettothedessert
cocktails, including a hot-and-cold spiced
piñacolada,whichissetalightatthe
tableandpouredovericecream.Not
to mention the strawberry butter-scone
martinimadewithbutter-washedvodka
served with scones on the side.
“When you see someone look at
acocktailorpresentationthatthey’ve
never seen before, and there’s confusion,
delight,ora‘this-is-absurd’moment,
it’slikewatchingakidplay,”says
Awehwolf. “That’s good for us.”
Spokenlikeafigmentofsomeone’s
imagination.–AmiKapilevich
2A Park Road, MLT House, Gardens; facebook.com/
CauseEffect.Bar

“The Membrane
cocktail is served
withasugaredrice
disc‘lid’andyou
need two qualities
to drink it: courage
and patience”


Clockwise from above left: Jars of dried rarities and tinctures give the mixologists something to play with
when concocting new creations; Justin Shaw with the Cross of Lorraine cocktail, made with Dusse cognac,
moringa, eucalyptus cordial and Caperitif.
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