Start a
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coffee and pastry
Many Portuenses begin their day with a
pastry and a coffee at one of the city’s cafés
or bakeries. Among the oldest is Confeitaria
do Bolhão, established in 1896. In the
morning rush, staff greet regulars across
the glass counter, where there’s a colourful
display taking in marzipan animals and
a giant triangular confection called
‘the Jesuit’. In Portugal, baking is almost
literally a religion, the profusion of
pastries a legacy of monks and nuns
supplementing their orders’ incomes.
The best-known example is the pastel de
nata: the baked custard tart is Confeitaria
do Bolhão’s top seller. However, the house
speciality – an almond tart called tigelinha
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wondering why it’s only the custard variety
that’s achieved fame outside Portugal.
Locals all have a preferred spot to partake
in their daily ritual, and 73-year-old João
Pessanha’s is Café Guarany, a hub for the
Confeitaria do Bolhão’s
version of pastel de nata
(the ubiquitous Portuguese
custard tart) and its house
speciality, tigelinha do BolhãoTASTE TOUR OF PORTO