Next, a waiter wearing a grey apron sets out
a banquet of beautiful dishes, from salmon
cured in mustard and orange to a cheese
plate adorned with apple and pickles. Set
under a skylight window, the food is cast
into deep chiaroscuro, making it look more
like a painting than lunch.
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Raise a toast over
the River Douro
Just the other side of Dom Luís I Bridge,
Vila Nova de Gaia is to Porto what
Brooklyn is to Manhattan: the former
industrial bit, rapidly gentrifying, and
with by far the best views of the city
skyline. Technically a separate city, Gaia
(as locals call it) is best known for its port
lodges. Belonging to that old-school
tradition but treading new ground is
The George, run by the 18th-century port
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here make inventive use of these heritage
ingredients. Drinks are served on a
riverside terrace along with small plates
made using similarly prized local produce,
such as cured tuna and Atlantic clams.
Heading for the Ribeira side I cross the
bridge, from which two lads wearing only
shorts are entertaining a crowd by making
daring leaps into the Douro. Tucked
among the colourful façades that descend
to the water’s edge is the unassuming
Wine Quay Bar. ‘My great-grandfather
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and the building has belonged to my
family for over 100 years,’ says co-owner
Filipa Garcia Fernandez
r u n s W i n e Q u a y B a r o n
the banks of the Douro.
A b o v e , f r o m l e ft : M i x e d
desserts at Sandeman’s
bar The George; a view
towards Ribeira from
inside The GeorgeTASTE TOUR OF PORTO