2019-02-01_Lonely_Planet_Traveller

(Jacob Rumans) #1
Adishofroasted
langoustines with herb
crumble at La Table
d’Olivia in St-Martin-de-Ré.
Left: Salt pans at Loix

PHOTOGRAPHS: PHILIP LEE HARVEY/LONELY PLANET, HOTEL DE TOIRAS/JACQUES LEBAR. WRITTEN BY SOPHIE DENING

ILE DE RÉ PICK ’N’ MIX


cyclepathstowhizzalongjoyfully,awareofbirdsong,
5'*"̮-5#01 ," 5'"# -.#, 1)'#1Ɵ --2-- '!7!*# &'0# ',
St-Martin is open all year round, and provides helmets
," !&'*" 1#21Ơ 1 5#** 1 40'-31 !*11#1 -$ 0'"#Ɵ
2ư1
5-02& 2&# #620 $-0  .""#" 1""*# '$ 7-3ư0# .*,,',%
+-0#2&,/3'!)2--2*#(from £10 a day; cycles-yootoo.
com)Ɵ*2#0,2'4#*7Ơ2)#2-horsebackat low tide, and
you can thunder along the beach at Conche des Baleines
and through the pine forest that fringes it
(leschevauxdeloix.frƻƟ+-,%2&# #!-$2-32&
coast of Île de Ré, Plage du Gros Jonc is a centre forsurfing
(re-surf.com),")7)',%(ilederevoile.com)Ɵ

Explore the
island*2&04#12',%&12)#,.*!#-,_*#"#¹1',!#
2*#122&#2&!#,2307Ơ,"51)#72-2&#'1*,"ư1
1#22*#+#,2 ," .0-1.#0'27Ɵ &# Ƥ+',32# 2-30 ,"
demonstration at Ecomusée du Marais Salant(£5;
marais-salant.com)'1.*#1',%*732&#,2'!,"*-Ƥ̭Ơ
and gives insight into theisland’s historyƟ
2ư1*1-
%--" .*!# 2- 37 %0-1 1#* ," ̮#30 "# 1#*Ɵ &# '1*,"ư1
+01&*,"1,"+3"̮210#12-,'1&',%*70'!&',
birdlife, including wading birds such as sandpipers
and avocets, and Ré is an essential pitstop between the
0!2'! ," $0'! $-0 +'%02-07 1.#!'#1Ɵ #0, +-0# -,
anature tour1202',%$0-+2&#120')',%5--"#,

+31#3+Ơ"'131#"1*21&#"Ơ2'**#3"#1'%#1,230#
reserveƺ˅ƟƢ+'1-,"3̭#0Ɵ$0ƻƟ
',**7Ơ2-*#0,+-0#
 -32_*#"#¹ư11202#%'!.12,"1'#%#20'3+.&-4#0
2&#0'2'1&Ơ4'1'2
-02*0¹#Ơ2&#oldest military
fortification-,2&#'1*,"Ɵ1'12#0!'2"#*2-2&#-,#2
2Ƥ02',Ơ'2'1*#11.-.3*01,220!2'-,Ơ *#)#0,"
more atmospheric (£5; fort-la-pree.comƻƟ

Beaches
galore-30#203*7,#4#0$0$0-+1,"7120,"
�#Ɵ0-"*71.#)',%Ơ&#"5#122-%#257$0-+2&#
crowds, or hit the south coast for beaches with amenities
,"%%%*#1-$$3,Ƥ1##)#01Ɵ,#-$2&# #12Ƥ),-5,
," 31'#12 #!,#0#-'1Ƥ*%#Ƥ#,Ƥ¹Ơ#1
Gollandières is popular for water sports, swimming,
sunbathing andall-round family funƟ
2'1!!#11' *#Ơ
with tiralos (beach chairs designed for those with
0#"3!#"+- '*'27ƻƟ.,#0#1-02#1Ơ2!&#'1
secludedƠ5'*"#0Ƥ$##*',% #!&Ơ%--"$-05*)',%,"
#',%*-,#-,Ɵ-20#Ƥ+# #!&'1̭,#Ơ1,"7
unsupervised stretch at Sainte-Marie-de Ré that isideal
for crabbingƠ0-!).--*̭1&',%,"52!&',% '0"1Ɵ

Watch the
sunset /3'..#"5'2&,#+.27 !).!)Ơ03%,"
,&-302-1.0#Ơ1#2-$$$0-+01Ƥ#,Ƥ¹,"!7!*#!0-11
2*2̮212-#1Ƥ-02#1Ƥ#,Ƥ¹Ơ5�#7-3!,.'!)3.
.'!,'!5�#5'2&*22&# )#07Ơ"#*',"#1-02#1
5',#+#0!&,21Ɵ&#,̭,"sheltered spoton Conche
des Baleines beach, from where you can watch the sun
1',)',2-2&#2*,2'!Ɵ

L a Ro c h e l l e a i r p o r t i s s e r v e d b y d i r e c t fl i g h t s w i t h e a s yJ e t , F l y b e, J e t 2 a n d R y a n a i r (fr o m £ 8 0 ; r y a n a i r.c o m).
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