& REVIEW
Sarah^ BoyumOne recent mid-
week evening, I sat at
the bar, gobsmacked
by how good Morin’s
six-course, $67 chef ’s tasting menu was
turning out to be. A small rectangle of
halibut was beautifully cooked and paired
with sweet fresh peas, a buttery pea sauce
tinged with yuzu, and thin dimes of
radish. The bartender, who was also my
server, had been right about a glass of 2017
Singulier, a Riesling-Pinot Gris blend
from a small Alsatian winery called Vi-
gnoble du Rêveur, listed at a hefty $22. It’s
one of those intersectionalist wines that
thrill the vin naturel crowd: orange-hued
with off-piste, oxidized flavors almost
like a Normandy cider, produced by an
experimental biodynamic winemaker who
probably howls at the full moon when
the vines begin to flower. It was a perfect
match for the fish.
As the meal progressed, every course
but one proved top-notch. An earlier puck
of veal tartare was a small masterpiece:
bits of meat diced to just the right size
and bound with a subtle green peach
cream, topped by acidic slices of pick-
led green strawberries and served with
buttered toast. Another dish featured
a single carrot, roasted to candy sweet-
ness and an almost fudgy texture, dotted
with chopped peanuts and drizzled with
a sharp Vietnamese fish sauce dressing
whose counterpoint notes were as clear as
the ting-ting of a glockenspiel.
After the halibut came “boeuf molokh-
ia.” Google informed me that molokhia
is an Egyptian leafy green known for its
okralike, mucilaginous texture; Morin
presented it, deliciously, with saag-esque
spice and consistency and bone marrowSuper Snack
Morin’s veal
tartare with
buttered toastFINEMINERALSHOW.COM
OPEN TO THE PUBLIC
FREE ADMISSION
FREE PARKING30+ WORLD-CLASS
DEALERS ALL IN
ONE LOCATION!
1717 Denver West Blvd, Golden, CO • I-70 EXIT 263
WED SEPT 11 - FRI SEPT 13, 10AM-6PM | SAT SEPT 14, 10AM-5PM
SEPTEMBER 11
TH
–14TH
, 2019
AT THEDenver Marriott West
sept 7 • friscofallfest.com
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art + food festival
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20119964 |^5280 |^ AUGUST^2019