E4 MG EE THE WASHINGTON POST.WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 7 , 2019
ing a partition sale of her fam-
ily’s farm and her allegations
against Bagwell & Bagwell,
which the firm denies.- A law proposed to protect
heirs from losing land in parti-
tion sales is called the Uniform
Partition of Heirs Property Act,
not the Partition of Heirs Proper-
ty Act. “Tenants in common” are
not solely defined as those living
on a property; they are all those
who own a share in the property.
The act would not require heirs
living on a property to come to
an agreement before it can be
sold, but would instead provide
several other protections.
er black Americans was pub-
lished in the Journal of Palliative
Medicine, not the National Li-
brary of Medicine, and was
about possession of advance
health directives, not estate
planning.- Ta shi Te rry said, “Welcome
to Belle Te rry Lane,” not “Wel-
come to Belle Te rry Farm.” The
property is named Te rry Farm. - Aubrey Te rry did not buy 170
acres with his siblings in 1963;
his parents bought the 150-acre
property in 1961. - The eldest Te rry brother
died in 2011, not 2015. - The article omitted Ta shi
Te rry’s account of some inci-
dents that led to a lawsuit seek-
dispute.- The article omitted Hyman’s
contention that actions by law
firm Bagwell & Bagwell consti-
tute apparent conflicts of inter-
est and omitted firm owner
George H. Bagwell’s response de-
nying that allegation. - A description by agricultural
lawyer Jillian Hishaw of laws
governing who inherits property
when a landowner dies was a
reference to the laws in most
states, not more than 20 states.
She was also generally describ-
ing these laws, not referring to
Virginia law. - A study the article said com-
pared the prevalence of estate
planning by older white and old-
J.G. Hyman says “Jr.” and “Sr.”
were left off the names of father
and son on documents, and the
land was mistakenly combined
under Rebecca’s name, meaning
some descendants did not re-
ceive proper ownership. After re-
questing a summary of the prop-
erty, Hyman says, she found her
great-aunt, Pinkie Freeman Lo-
gan, was the rightful heir to hun-
dreds of acres, but they were not
properly transferred to her. In
2016, Hyman says, 360 acres of
the original 1,000 were auc-
tioned off after a lengthy court
battle, a decision she says she
and some other family members
CORRECTION FROM E1
BY KARA ELDERYou know the best way to grill
fish and make refreshing ceviche.
Poke? You’ve been making it ev-
ery other week. This summer, it’s
time to try the cure.
“There are two basic ways to
cure fish,” says Ron Goodman,
co-owner and operator of Ivy City
Smokehouse in the District: a dry
cure — a mixture of salt, sugar
and seasonings — and a water
cure, or brine, which uses all of
the above plus (surprise!) water.
Both methods are a form of pres-
ervation going back centuries
wherever fish are plentiful. For
now, let’s focus on the dry cure.
Choose your fish. The same rules
you would follow for ceviche ap-
ply here: Make sure the fish is
fresh, ask where it’s from, and so
on. Farm-raised is a good choice,
says Goodman, because the pur-
veyor can guarantee it’s free of
parasites. Buy from someone you
trust and bring a few ice packs to
keep that fish extremely cold un-
til you start curing — ideally
within a day of purchasing.
A fun way to dive into curing is
to purchase six- to eight-ounce
portions of a fillet so that you can
play around with seasonings
without having to commit. You
can cure with skin on or off; the
skin slows the cure’s absorption
and gives you something to hold
on to while slicing.
As f or the type of fish, Oakland,
Calif.-based cookbook author Nik
Sharma prefers ones with a little
more oil, such as salmon. The
coriander gravlax from his book,
“Season: Big Flavors, Beautiful
Food” ( Chronicle Books, 2018), is
flavored with Darjeeling tea
leaves and black peppercorns.
London-based cookbook author
Alissa Timoshkina suggests any-
thing meaty, dense and firm —
she has cured mackerel, cod and
other fish local to Siberia, where
she’s from. Her forthcoming
book, “Salt & Time: Recipes from
a Russian Kitchen” ( Mitchell Bea-
zley), includes a recipe for cured
whole mackerel. In addition to
those recipes, I had great results
with a piece of Loch Etive trout.
Ask your fishmonger what they
would recommend for curing and
you may just be surprised by a
new-to-you variety.Pick a few flavorings. “The most
basic is salt and sugar,” says Ti-
moshkina. “But you can impro-
vise and add a bit of chile, garlic,
different herbs.” I n her recipe, she
stuffs the cleaned, whole macker-
el with dill, parsley and/or purple
basil for “an aromatic quality.”
Sharma uses ingredients with
a strong aroma and taste. “Even
though you’re infusing flavor, it’s
mostly at the surface level,” he
says. “If you use a weak spice, you
don’t get much impact.” For an
extra pop of color, he also sug-
gests adding beet, cherry or blue-
berry juices. For less mess, use
fresh fruit and vegetables — per
his suggestion, I grated about a
tablespoon of raw beet, then
packed it on top of the salt and
sugar layer. I was rewarded with a
vividly dyed hunk — the beet
flavor came through nicely, too.
Alcohol is another way to add
and enhance the taste — as, Shar-
ma explains, it “helps draw out
some flavor... that water can-
not.” Consider gin, aquavit, whis-
key or anise-flavored spirits, for
starters. Just a tablespoon or two
will do; brush it directly onto the
flesh before the curing mixture,
or sprinkle on top. Sharma has
done it both ways and noticed no
difference.
Use a coarse salt, such as ko-
sher, then add other flavors at
will. For example:
l Grated raw beet + aquavit +
grated lemon zest + white sugar
l Bourbon + fresh thyme +
fresh tarragon + raw sugar
l Fennel fronds + crushed cori-
ander seed + grated orange zest +dried chile flakes + white sugar
Other flavors to consider: tea
leaves, such as the smoky Lap-
sang souchong; dried hibiscus
flowers; various crushed pepper-
corns; that random spice blend
somebody gave you; whichever
highly aromatic and abundant
herb you’re growing. Get wild! Be
funky!Start curing and practice pa-
tience. Once you’ve gathered
your flavorings, get out your digi-
tal scale and calculator. The
amount of salt should be about
one-fifth the weight of the fish. A
one-pound piece of fish will need
about 3.2 ounces of salt; 6 ounces
of fish, 1.2 ounces of salt, and so
on. While it may seem like a lot of
salt, remember, you are not per-
sonally absorbing all of that sodi-
um, and neither is the fish: You’ll
scrape or rinse off the cure before
eating.
Some recipes call for equal
amounts of salt and sugar, others
for half the sugar. While you
should be somewhat strict about
the amount of salt, since it draws
out moisture and thus preserves
the fish, you can play more fast
and loose with the other flavor-
ings.
Te ar or bruise fresh herbs to
release their aroma. Likewise,
grind or pulverize seeds, dried
flowers, peppercorns and other
spices. Mix the salt, sugar and
flavors of choice in a small bowl
and lay your fish on a piece of
parchment paper. Rub the mix-
ture over every surface of the fish
— and inside if curing whole. (If
you’re doing the latter, ask the
fishmonger to gut and clean thefish first, or you’ll have to.)
To p with freshly grated beet
and sprigs of herbs, if using.
Then, wrap the fish in parch-
ment, lay it flat it in a dish (to
prevent leakage), put a few heavy
cans on top and transfer to the
refrigerator. For whole fish, Ti-
moshkina says to simply tie the
herb-topped fish with string — n o
weight necessary. Turn the fish
over about once every eight
hours.
The curing time depends on
the size of fish and the finished
texture you desire. The fish will
visibly shrink as it releases liquid,
resulting in a firmer texture and
glossy flesh. For larger portions,
somewhere between 24 and 48
hours is ideal. (I let small portions
go for 24 hours once and wished I
had checked them slightly soon-
er.) Sharma suggests slicing off a
thin piece to decide if you like the
taste and texture; if not, keep it
going.When it’s ready, discard any
large herbs, then scrape or rinse
off the cure, and pat the fish dry.
Thinly slice the fish at an angle
(against the grain) with a sharp
knife. For easier slicing, you can
even freeze your fish for an hour
or two. If you cured a whole fish,
cut it across into about 1-inch
chunks — through the skin, spine
and all — and discard the head
and tail. Pull the skin off with
your hands and/or teeth, and eat
around the bones. “It’s a very
messy affair,” writes Timoshkina.
Eat your cured fish within a
week, or freeze it for up to three
months. (Timoshkina does not
recommend freezing mackerel.)Make your presentation pretty
by laying the fish over plenty of
fresh greenery. Serve with crack-
ers, bagels or thin slices of dark,
sturdy bread. A selection of pi-
quant mustards and cured/pick-
led things — capers, olives, pep-
pers, onions — help to cut
through the fish’s richness. Just
about everyone appreciates lem-
on and lime wedges. Cream
cheese, thick yogurt or a horse-
radish-spiked sour cream are
never a bad idea. To d rink, choose
something bright and slightly ef-
fervescent. Or make like the Rus-
sians: Pair your cured fish with a
cold beer and toast to the golden
hours of summer.
[email protected]Elder is a Washington freelance
writer.VORACIOUSLY
Think outside the lox by curing your own fish
Corrections to July 24 article ‘Holding their ground’
Each week, we field questions
about all things food at live.wash
ingtonpost.com. Last week’s
guests were Rachael Jackson, who
writes about confusing food situ
ations at EatOrToss.com and M.
Carrie Allan, our Spirits colum
nist. Here are edited excerpts
from that chat. Recipes whose
names are capitalized can be
found in our Recipe Finder at
washingtonpost.com/recipes.Q. I recently sprang for a jar of
real maraschino cherries from
Italy. Given how pricey they are,
I want to savor the cherries and
the juice. Any suggestions for
cocktails that would show off the
juice (as well as the cherries)?
A. Don’t waste that syrup! I like
to use it to enhance Manhattans,
as a syrup substitute in Old
Fashioneds, and it’s great mixed
into gin and tonics. I would
maybe try it out in a martini riff,
too — try a couple ounces of gin
or vodka, an ounce of dry (or
blanc) vermouth, a dash of
orange bitters and a spoonful of
that cherry syrup and see where
it needs tweaking. Honestly, that
stuff is so tasty it’s hard to think
of drinks it wouldn’t enhance.
M. Carrie AllanQ. We have a produce drawer
filled with asparagus and are
getting ready to leave town for a
week. We’d love to make
something with it and freeze the
results but aren’t sure what
direction to take. What about
asparagus soup — will it freeze?
A. How about our delicious
Asparagus and Leek Soup With
Lemon and Rosemary? It should
freeze beautifully. Our simple
Asparagus Soup is also lovely.
Olga MassovQ. I have a pretty strong hatred
of soy sauce. This means pretty
wide swaths of whole cuisines
that seem to use it in most of
their dishes are lost to me. I
really would like to explore some
of these cuisines, but when soy
sauce makes up a large portion
of a dish or sauce, I’m at a loss as
to what to do. Is there some
substitute I could use?
A. How about liquid aminos or
coconut aminos? Have you tried
them? If not, it’s worth a taste to
see if you like. Another thought
is Chinese black vinegar. I’ve
used that in the past to cut some
of the sodium from soy-sauce-
heavy dishes, and it’s super tasty.
Joe YonanQ. I like to use fresh ginger when
I’m cooking, but I always feel like
I can’t use all of it before it starts
to soften and shrivel. Are there
any cool ways to use it as the
ginger is about to go bad?
A. I love blending it with
pineapple (fresh or canned). If
your recipe also called forcilantro or another fresh herb,
toss those in, too (stems
included!). Have it with yogurt
for breakfast, or mix it with
juice/seltzer/rum to chill out in
the evening.
Rachael JacksonQ. What to do with an
overgrowth of rosemary?
A. Adding it to a drink, such as a
Rosemary Lemonade, is a great
idea. You can make a simple
syrup (1 part water to 1 part
sugar) and then drop some
rosemary in there to let it infuse.
I think adding it to a gin, vodka
or tequila blanco cocktail would
be delicious. Our Lemon Thyme
Cello is delicious and you can
sub the thyme for rosemary — or
add both! As for desserts, you
could add it as a flavor in ice
cream with fruit like raspberries
or peaches, or a cake. You can
also try Orange Peel- and
Rosemary-Scented Butter
Cookies, Salted Honey Bars
where you can replace thyme for
rosemary and a Blueberry-
Rosemary Breakfast Pudding.
Kari SondeQ. I made homemade salad
dressing for the first time last
night — olive oil, lemon juice,
Dijon mustard, salt, pepper,
fresh basil. However, the
dressing is a bit too tart for my
taste. Any suggestions please on
a way to rescue it that doesn’t
involve sugar or gluten?
A. The easiest way to correct
over-tartness in a dressing is to
add a little honey, but sounds
like you don’t want to go there.
So another thought would be to
just dilute it — add a little water
and/or olive oil, and re-season
with salt to make sure it tastes
good. Basically, you want to up
the proportions of everything
that’s not tart, which in this case
would be the lemon juice and, to
a lesser extent, the mustard.
J.Y.Q. Tr ying to use only garden-
grown veggies: peppers (sweet
and mild chilies), spinach,
broccolini, blueberries,
strawberries, carrots, shallots,
leeks, coming-soon squash and
sweet corn. I swear I have tried
every combination I can think of.
Every meal is like “Chopped” f or
foragers. I need some outside
ideas.
A. Curious what you’ve tried so
far? That’s an inspiring list! Have
you ever made upma? It’s an
Indian grain-based dish that I
usually load with all the
vegetables I have on hand. You
might use the Savory Indian-
Style Oats (Oats Upma) recipe as
a baseline, but adjust liberally
based on what you’re working
with. It’s amazing with an egg on
top.
R.J.FREE RANGE EXCERPTSUses aplenty for extra
asparagus, aromatics
With some salt and a few
enhancements, you can
make it all your ownPHOTOS BY STACY ZARIN GOLDBERG FOR THE WASHINGTON POST; FOOD STYLING BY LISA CHERKASKY FOR THE WASHINGTON POSTABOVE: Salt, sugar and a few herbs are all you need to get started
curing a piece of fish. TOP: Oily fish such as trout and salmon work
well for curing. The options are endless when flavoring the fish,
including tarragon, beets and fennel fronds.DIXIE D. VEREEN FOR THE WASHINGTON POST
Blueberry-Rosemary Breakfast PuddingTOM MCCORKLE FOR THE WASHINGTON POST;
FOOD STYLING BY LISA CHERKASKY FOR THE WASHINGTON POSTSalted Honey Bars With Thyme