FineScale Modeler – September 2019

http://www.FineScale.com 21

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After transferring the pattern onto styrene, I cut out the plates. Don’t

outline the pattern. Rather mark the pattern at each end. I place the tip

of the knife into one of the marks to align the straight edge.

Before shaving unwanted parts, I made a sim-

ple bench stop that kept the cutting on the

plastic and off of my fingers.

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It’s important to fit the styrene plates to the side they’ll be used on.The

front bottom edge of the side plates should align with the forward edge

of the cut-outs for the kit’s horizontal fillets (nos. C12 and D12).

The M1917’s “triangular” armor by the driver’s head has to be scratch-
built. After removing the FT’s side armor, I used an index card to
create patterns for the replacement plates.

With photos and measurements in hand, it was time to figure out which details could stay and
which had to be shaved off. Bolt heads that were in the wrong place were chiseled off, then saved
to be placed where others were missing. Discarded pill containers work well for this.

Remove:

Scribed Line:

Remove:

Scribe:

Fill:

Fill:

Springs Turret

Smaller rivets on

angled plates

larger on hull

I beveled the edges of the plates to prevent gaps on the exterior; I didn’t
measure the angle, just eyeballed it. Take your time and don’t worry —
if something goes awry, you can always make a new plate.

This illustration shows the pattern of armored

plates on either side of the driver on the

M1917.