Robb Report - 08.2019

(Darren Dugan) #1
ALESSANDRO SQUARZI: LORENZO SODI

54 AUGUST 2019


The Goods | STYLE

(1) GIANLUCA MIGLIAROTTI^
Cofounder, trouser-maker Pommella Napoli
I always suggest trousers in lighter colors
than the jacket, with very few exceptions.
Especially if you are traveling, if you
carry a blue blazer you can play with
the color of your trousers and always
look smart and different. I wear a lot of
different colors: green, white, cream, red,
beige, light gray, light blue...and so on.

MATT HRANEK
Editor, WM Brown Project
A good wax jacket like a Barbour (of any
vintage) can take you from the field to a
more formal setting without a hitch. It’s
the perfect piece of outerwear.

JUSTIN BERKOWITZ
Men’s fashion director, Bloomingdale’s
I like trying to master the formal-
informal mix by pairing (and hopefully
balancing) more tailored elements
with softer ones, so I feel comfortable.
I’ll wear a blazer with a more casual
trouser, like a pleated cotton chino. If
I’m wearing a dressier wool trouser,
I’ll balance it with a casual bomber
jacket or overshirt. And if I’m wearing
a suit, I’ll do it with a crewneck
sweater and loafers instead of a shirt,
tie and oxfords.

(2) ALESSANDRO SQUARZI
Creative director, Fortela
The time has come for men to start
dressing properly again and chicly.
No more stretch-type trousers. The suit
also needs to widen slightly, and the
bottom of trousers must be no less
than 20 cm wide. I love to wear a suit
with a polo underneath—I think this
looks very elegant.

MARK CHO,
Founder, the Armoury; co-owner, Drake’s
Black knit ties are one of my favorite
things, evoking Miles Davis from the
’60s. While the obvious choice is to
wear it with a gray suit and white shirt,
I would suggest trying it with neutral
jackets instead. It’s a great way to take
country colors and give them a twist for
the city.

PHILIP CONRADSSON
Freelance writer and menswear consultant
A lot of men really take their time to
make alterations for their suits but totally
forget about their coats. In my opinion, it
doesn’t matter how good your suit looks
if the coat has a poor fit. It almost always
comes down to arm length and width
around the waist. Think of what you
want to wear underneath the coat and
adjust it after that; it’s worth the money
every time.

(3) JOSH PESKOWITZ
Men’s fashion director, Moda Operandi;
owner, Magasin
In the same way many guys wear
blue and gray regularly, I turn to olive
and brown. While it’s not as obvious,
it is one of those sartorial color choices
I consistently go back to.

1.

2.

G2Gb_Aug_GDS_Advice.indd 54 7/3/19 6:28 PM

ALESSANDROSQUARZI:LORENZOSODI

54 AUGUST 2019


The Goods | STYLE

(1) GIANLUCA MIGLIAROTTI^
Cofounder, trouser-maker Pommella Napoli
I always suggest trousers in lighter colors
than the jacket, with very few exceptions.
Especially if you are traveling, if you
carry a blue blazer you can play with
the color of your trousers and always
look smart and different. I wear a lot of
different colors: green, white, cream, red,
beige, light gray, light blue...and so on.

MATT HRANEK
Editor, WM Brown Project
A good wax jacket like a Barbour (of any
vintage) can take you from the field to a
more formal setting without a hitch. It’s
the perfect piece of outerwear.

JUSTIN BERKOWITZ
Men’s fashion director, Bloomingdale’s
I like trying to master the formal-
informal mix by pairing (and hopefully
balancing) more tailored elements
with softer ones, so I feel comfortable.
I’ll wear a blazer with a more casual
trouser, like a pleated cotton chino. If
I’m wearing a dressier wool trouser,
I’ll balance it with a casual bomber
jacket or overshirt. And if I’m wearing
a suit, I’ll do it with a crewneck
sweater and loafers instead of a shirt,
tie and oxfords.

(2) ALESSANDRO SQUARZI
Creative director, Fortela
The time has come for men to start
dressing properly again and chicly.
No more stretch-type trousers. The suit
also needs to widen slightly, and the
bottom of trousers must be no less
than 20 cm wide. I love to wear a suit
with a polo underneath—I think this
looks very elegant.

MARK CHO,
Founder, the Armoury; co-owner, Drake’s
Black knit ties are one of my favorite
things, evoking Miles Davis from the
’60s. While the obvious choice is to
wear it with a gray suit and white shirt,
I would suggest trying it with neutral
jackets instead. It’s a great way to take
country colors and give them a twist for
the city.

PHILIP CONRADSSON
Freelance writer and menswear consultant
A lot of men really take their time to
make alterations for their suits but totally
forget about their coats. In my opinion, it
doesn’t matter how good your suit looks
if the coat has a poor fit. It almost always
comes down to arm length and width
around the waist. Think of what you
want to wear underneath the coat and
adjust it after that; it’s worth the money
every time.

(3) JOSH PESKOWITZ
Men’s fashion director, Moda Operandi;
owner, Magasin
In the same way many guys wear
blue and gray regularly, I turn to olive
and brown. While it’s not as obvious,
it is one of those sartorial color choices
I consistently go back to.

1.

2.
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