The New York Times International - 07.08.2019

(Romina) #1

T HE NEW YORK TIMES INTERNATIONAL EDITION WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 7, 2019 | 3


World


The bride wore a sparkling tiara and a
flowing red wedding gown, her fifth
matrimonial ensemble of the day. The
groom wore a silver tuxedo and the fa-
tigued look of a guy who had spent the
last dozen hours posing for pictures.
The photographer gave instructions.
Re-enact the proposal on bended knee.
Twirl in the dress. Kiss the bride’s hand.
But it was nearly sunset, and the cou-
ple still hadn’t captured that perfect
Santorini picture to display at their tra-
ditional wedding in China next month.
So their photographer, who is based in
Shanghai, rushed the pair across the is-
land’s whitewashed roofs and narrow
cliffside footpaths, coaching them in
Chinese at various scenic outlooks.
Above a luxury hotel renowned in
China as the setting for a popular ro-
mantic comedy, he told the weary groom
to lift his betrothed in an over-the-
threshold pose. The third try was the
charm.
For a grand finale, the couple stared
into each other’s eyes on a rooftop, and
the photographer framed their silhou-
ettes around the blood-orange sun, sink-
ing behind them into the shimmering
Aegean Sea. It was the stuff pre-wed-
ding-picture dreams were made of.
“Santorini is famous in China,” said
the 29-year-old groom, Yao Kai, after the
final click of the camera.
Unlike his parents, who he said had
sat stoically for their wedding photos in
China, the groom had the good fortune
to have seen the world — and wanted his
friends, family and wedding guests to
see him seeing it.
“This is a great moment for our coun-
try’s economy,” he added. “We are get-
ting stronger.”
Pre-wedding pictures have become a
multibillion-dollar business in the Insta-
gram age — particularly for Chinese
couples.
Many Chinese brides and grooms
who plan for traditional ceremonies
back home go first for professional pho-
tographs under the Eiffel Tower in Paris,
at Big Ben in London, and in the English
countryside. (“A Downton Abbey effect
on Chinese pre-wedding photo shoots,”
The South China Morning Post re-
ported.) New Zealand and Antarctica
are the latest pre-wedding destination
hot spots.
But the deep blues and whiteout
whites of Santorini exercise a particular
hold on the romantic imagination of
many a Chinese nearlywed.
“A lot of people come,” said Xu Kaiyue,
the photographer’s assistant. “Too
many people.”

Santorini is fatally picturesque. Ar-
madas of cruise ships and low-cost air
carriers carry selfie and Instagram ad-
dicts to its clogged towns. Airbnbs have
replaced residents. The island’s don-
keys buckle under the burden of portly

visitors. (“Fat tourists leave Greek is-
land donkeys CRIPPLED,” read a head-
line in Britain’s Express newspaper.)
To profit off the Chinese market,
Greek photographers have developed
websites with galleries of stunning

brides-to-be stretching languorously or
leading white horses on the beach.
The island’s officials, like their coun-
terparts across Greece, have pursued
Chinese investment during the coun-
try’s economic crisis, and appreciate the
lucrative surge in Chinese visitors.
Luke Bellonias, an island official, said
the Chinese had extended the tourist
season deep into autumn when most Eu-
ropeans and Americans have gone
home. “They just love to take photos,” he
said. “They don’t love the sun that
much.”
Still, he acknowledged, “This gets a
bit out of control.”
Foreign photographers, complete
with makeup crews, large stocks of wed-
ding dresses and stylists, live for
months on the island but dodge taxes, he
said. The financial police rarely enforce
the law, giving free rein, he said, to peo-
ple “holding wedding dresses above
their heads and two or three bags and
running from place to place.”
For many couples, fees running into
the tens of thousands of euros are a
small price to pay for an image that they
say encapsulates both true romance and

social mobility. “It’s as important, if not
more important, than the ring,” said
Olivia Martin-McGuire, the director of
“China Love,” a documentary about the
industry.
And for couples unable to afford the
real thing, there are photo studios in
Shanghai with Santorini sets. “It’s very
meaningful,” Ms. Martin-McGuire said.

Having pre-wedding pictures shot on
Santorini itself seemed to mean the
world to 26-year-old Tzuchi Lin, and his
fiancée, Yingting Huang.
“It’s very exciting. Actually, we didn’t
sleep last night,” Mr. Lin, who is known
as Kenny, said in his hotel room one re-
cent morning. His 30-year-old fiancée,
who uses the name Penny, applied hair
spray in front of two wedding gowns
draped from the window shutters.
“Now she can show off to her friends:

‘I went to Santorini to have my pre-wed-
ding photos,’ ” he said.
The couple, from Taiwan, where some
pre-wedding scholars say the industry
began, slipped into something less com-
fortable. Mr. Lin wore a tuxedo with a
maroon bow tie, and Ms. Huang an em-
pire-waist white gown with lace bodice.
She folded a second dress into a paper
bag.
They fueled up on eggs in the hotel,
but the waiter insisted Mr. Lin drink a
shot of ouzo.
“Now,” he said, “you can get married.”
In the parking lot, they met their pho-
tographers, Toto Kuo, a Taiwan native,
and her husband of three months, Geor-
gios Galanopoulos. They met “the old-
fashioned” way, Ms. Kuo said — “couch
surfing.”
The two photographers — who re-
fused to have any pictures taken at their
own wedding — led their clients to Oia,
the town on the photo-bombarded tip of
the island, where they set up shop in Mr.
Galanopoulos’s family art gallery.
They fought the crowds elbowing to-
ward a particularly sought-after blue
dome backdrop, but a Houston couple
posing for professional anniversary pic-
tures had already claimed the perch. Mr.
Galanopoulos, 50, said the island’s
Greek photographers had begun dis-
cussing whether there should be a five-
minute-per-iconic-backdrop policy.
At a crowded lookout point, Mr.
Galanopoulos instructed the couple to
keep their lips puckered in a suspended
near kiss.
“Novio!” shouted someone in Span-
ish.
The sun started taking its toll. Ms.
Huang sprayed sunscreen on her shoul-
ders and pointed an electric fan at her
throat. Her fiancé handed out water bot-
tles.
They took a breather in the gallery,
where Mr. Galanopoulos kept six wed-
ding dresses on hand. Ms. Huang
emerged from the basement in a red one
with a 20-foot train.
At the church down the street, the
caretaker shooed them away because
the priest didn’t approve of the picture-
taking.
With time running out, things started
looking up. Ms. Kuo noticed an auspi-
cious sweat stain marking her hus-
band’s T-shirt. (“Babe,” she said, “You
have a heart.”)
The priest had left, and the church
caretaker sneaked them inside the
courtyard, where the posing couple re-
ceived shouts of congratulations and
blessings for marital bliss from tourists
on the packed footpath alongside the
church.
After a wardrobe change into the
“sexy” dress, the couple got their blue
dome backdrop and nailed a rooftop pro-
posal shot.
“Will you marry me?” Mr. Lin said in
English.
“Say yes,” coached Ms. Kuo.
“Yes,” the bride said.
A crowd gathered below applauded
warmly.

A bride, a groom and a Greek photo shoot


SANTORINI DISPATCH
SANTORINI, GREECE

BY JASON HOROWITZ
AND LAURA BOUSHNAK

Asian couples’ desire
for pictures on Santorini
has crowded the island

Tourists gathering atop a castle ruin at the photo-bombarded tip of the Greek island of Santorini. Some of the island’s Greek photographers have begun discussing whether there
should be a five-minute-per-iconic-backdrop policy. Below, a couple from Taiwan, Tzuchi Lin and his fiancé, Yingting Huang, getting ready for their pre-wedding photo shoot.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY LAURA BOUSHNAK FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES

Foreign photographers, complete
with makeup crews, large stocks
of wedding dresses and stylists,
live for months on the island.

An official in Beijing on Tuesday issued
China’s sternest denunciation yet of the
demonstrations in Hong Kong, saying
they had “exceeded the scope of free as-
sembly” and warning that the semiau-
tonomous city would not be allowed to
descend into chaos.
“I want to warn all the criminals to not
wrongly judge the situation and take re-
straint as weakness,” said Yang Guang,
a spokesman for the Chinese govern-
ment’s Hong Kong and Macau Affairs
Office. He warned against underesti-
mating China’s “firm resolve and
strength to safeguard the prosperity
and stability of Hong Kong.”
But Mr. Yang offered little in the way
of concrete measures to resolve the po-
litical crisis, calling for more patriotic
education and encouraging residents to
confront protesters. “We need to stand
up to protect our wonderful homeland,”
he said.
The comments came a day after pro-
testers in Hong Kong carried out their
most widespread civil disobedience in
weeks of demonstrations, blocking
trains and roads and urging workers to
strike. Air travel was also snarled, with
more than 200 flights canceled after
2,300 civil aviation workers stayed
home, according to an estimate by union
officials.
The protesters called for a general
strike in an effort to halt daily life across
the city, wielding a potentially powerful
new tool in their weekslong campaign
against the Hong Kong government.
Hong Kong’s values of efficiency, hard
work and, increasingly, a dedication to
public protest are colliding as protesters
from across society test the limits of the
city’s police force. Officers on Monday
fired tear gas near shopping malls and
residential areas and arrested at least
82 people, while the city’s leader, Carrie
Lam, warned that efforts to “topple
Hong Kong” could destroy livelihoods
and push the city “to the verge of a very

dangerous situation.”
Monday was the last of three consecu-
tive days of large-scale civil disobedi-
ence intended to increase pressure on
the government as it confronts Hong
Kong’s worst political crisis since 1997,
when it was returned to Chinese rule af-
ter more than 150 years as a British colo-
n y.
Many protesters said they felt they
had no choice but to escalate their ac-
tions after the government failed to fully
respond to peaceful marches in June
that organizers said drew as many as
two million people.
The protests began nearly two
months ago in response to legislation,
since suspended, that would allow crim-
inal suspects to be extradited to main-
land China, where the courts are con-
trolled by the ruling Communist Party.
The movement, which has been driven
by longstanding fears of deteriorating
freedoms under Beijing’s rule, has ex-
panded to include a variety of griev-
ances, including the stalled expansion of
direct elections and accusations of ex-
cessive force by the police.
It was unclear how many people

heeded the call to strike on Monday. But
protesters began the day by blocking
roads and subway train doors using
flash-mob-style tactics.
Mass rallies were held at more than
half a dozen sites, including outside the
government headquarters on Hong
Kong Island. Officers fired tear gas at
several locations across the city.

Later in the evening, protesters in the
North Point neighborhood on eastern
Hong Kong Island were briefly attacked
by men wearing white shirts and wield-
ing sticks in a scene reminiscent of July
21, when a pro-Beijing mob beat pro-
testers and bystanders in the satellite
town of Yuen Long.
Since the protests began in early
June, the police have arrested 420 peo-
ple and fired 1,000 rounds of tear gas, a
spokesman said Monday.
That is significantly more than during
Hong Kong’s last sustained protest

movement in 2014, when the use of tear
gas against pro-democracy demonstra-
tors galvanized the public in support of a
sit-in that lasted 79 days. The police
fired a total of 87 tear gas canisters then,
and only on the first night of the protest.
In recent weeks, the protesters’ anger
has largely shifted to focus on the scale
and intensity of the police response. On
Monday, they surrounded and vandal-
ized several police stations, setting fires
outside at least two of them. Supporters
say the police have regularly shown re-
straint.
Mrs. Lam, Hong Kong’s chief execu-
tive, warned Monday morning in her
first public remarks in two weeks that
the city “has become unsafe and un-
stable” and that “a series of extremely
violent acts are pushing Hong Kong into
very precarious circumstances.”
Mrs. Lam is under pressure from Chi-
na’s central government to bring the
protests under control, and the Chinese
military hinted last month that it could
be called in to restore order. The Hong
Kong government has repeatedly de-
nied plans to make any such request.
The response by Hong Kong officials

to the strike on Monday “was a disaster,”
said Antony Dapiran, a lawyer based in
Hong Kong and the author of a book
about dissent in Hong Kong. “They
came out with a fairly hard line, no con-
cessions, nothing new.”
The Hong Kong government also
warned Monday that the unrest was af-
fecting the local economy, including
sales of luxury goods as mainland Chi-
nese visitors choose to avoid the city.
Hong Kong stocks have declined by
nearly 10 percent in the past month.
“The movement has had a lot of im-
pact on Hong Kong, the operation of the
whole economy and the operation of
many industries and businesses,” said
Ivan Choy, a senior lecturer in govern-
ment and public administration at the
Chinese University of Hong Kong. “But I
think this is the right of Hong Kong peo-
ple to demand more freedom and more
justice in society.”
Some commuters complained about
the transportation delays and con-
fronted protesters. Vehicles plowed
through barriers set up by protesters
along roadways at least twice, sending
demonstrators diving for safety. But

even those facing delays said the gov-
ernment was to blame for failing to ad-
dress public grievances.
“Carrie Lam has caused my absence
today,” said Dancus Au, 24, an employee
at a security company who was stuck in
a subway station for hours in the morn-
ing.
He said Mrs. Lam had made a mistake
by merely suspending the extradition
bill rather than formally withdrawing it,
as protesters have demanded. “She
should have said ‘withdraw’ at the be-
ginning of this fiasco,” he said. “She is
part of the root cause, while Beijing is
another part of it.”
Labor unions said hundreds of thou-
sands may have joined the strike, and
some groups, like workers at Hong Kong
Disneyland, did announce work stop-
pages. Others took a day of leave or
called in sick to join the protests.
Janice Lau, a 38-year-old teacher,
pumped her fist in the air in encourage-
ment as she and her 6-year-old daugh-
ter, Zoe, watched protesters drag steel
barricades to block traffic near the gov-
ernment headquarters.
“I’m proud of them,” she said. “Soci-
ety forced them to do this, and they did-
n’t harm the society. These days, people
are more afraid when the police appear
than when protesters appear.”
Mr. Yang, the Beijing government
spokesman, on Tuesday denounced the
tactics of protesters as “extreme vio-
lence that is shocking to see.”
Since protesters started to increas-
ingly target police stations this past
weekend, officers have appeared to be
more aggressive in making arrests. But
the increased assertiveness risked fur-
ther inflaming public sentiment.
“For me the most alarming thing is
we’re kind of on a knife’s edge here —
open disrespect for the police, police sta-
tions being targeted,” Mr. Dapiran said.
“We are on the cusp of what could be a
general breakdown of law and order. It
hasn’t gotten there yet, but the govern-
ment hasn’t done anything to stop it.”

Beijing warns Hong Kong protesters after strike snarls city


HONG KONG

BY AUSTIN RAMZY, MIKE IVES
AND TIFFANY MAY

Katherine Li and Ezra Cheung contribut-
ed reporting from Hong Kong. Elsie Chen
contributed research from Beijing.

Left, protesters blocked subway doors as part of a general strike in Hong Kong on Monday. Police used tear gas, right, to disperse the protests that popped up throughout the city.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY LAM YIK FEI FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES

Protesters blocked trains and
roads and urged people to strike.

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public protest are colliding as protesters

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from across society test the limits of the

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from across society test the limits of the
city’s police force. Officers on Monday

VK.COM/WSNWS


city’s police force. Officers on Monday
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fired tear gas near shopping malls and
residential areas and arrested at least

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residential areas and arrested at least
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VK.COM/WSNWS

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VK.COM/WSNWS

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РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS

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