The New York Times International - 05.08.2019

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14 | MONDAY, AUGUST 5, 2019 THE NEW YORK TIMES INTERNATIONAL EDITION

Culture


Plastics transformed the material
world after World War II. Today, they
pollute our oceans. A better future will
be made with... algae. Or bacteria.
That’s the dominant theme of a sweep-
ing exhibition, “Nature: Cooper Hewitt
Design Triennial.”
On display at the Cooper Hewitt, the
Smithsonian’s temple to the culture of
design on upper Fifth Avenue in New
York, are objects you might once have
expected only at a science museum:
Proteins found in silkworms are repur-
posed as surgical screws and optical
lenses. Electronically active bacteria
power a light fixture.
Heedless exploitation of resources
has undergirded industrial society and
is quickly becoming untenable. This
exhibition celebrates ambitious col-
laborations by teams of designers and
scientists striving to achieve human
ends in ways that don’t require extract-
ing fossil fuels from the earth, for
example, and that restore such vast
damaged realms as oceans. The “Na-
ture” triennial, which will be on view
through Jan. 20, is positing no less than
a new relationship between the human
and the natural.
It displays some 60 projects and
products from around the world that
define a reconciliation of biosphere and
technosphere, as Koert van Mensvoort,
a Dutch artist and philosopher, puts it
in the show’s excellent catalog. (The
exhibition was organized with the Cube
design museum, in Kerkrade, the
Netherlands.)
The Cooper Hewitt’s curators are
illuminating how environmental chal-
lenges are scrambling the roles of
designers, scientists and the museum
itself. “Nature” isn’t an easy fit for the
Cooper Hewitt. Built upon a decorative
arts foundation, the museum’s tradi-
tional mission has been to promote
“good” design — of office furniture,
gadgets and appliances — and the
singular talents who create it.
In “Nature,” designers and re-
searchers pose bigger questions, envi-
sioning possibilities that may not be
realized for decades, and help us un-
derstand arcane data at nano and
macro scale. To address fundamental
issues in climate change and habitat
loss, with their potential for mass
extinctions, requires that a creative
designer invest passion (and subsume
the ego) in a collaboration with scien-
tists working at the cutting edge of
research.
The curators maintain that scien-
tists, too, are “designers” of organisms
like bacteria and yeast, which are
becoming the components of new
materials and products.

BIOSYNTHESIS AND BEYOND
Project intentions are frequently reme-
dial rather than exploitative: restoring
a fragile world that has been depleted,
polluted, eroded and fragmented by
human activity.
Algae and bacteria are abundant,
and the museum shows how such
substances replace destructive indus-
trial materials, especially petroleum-
based plastics. Curators highlight an
ethereal translucent raincoat made out
of algae by Charlotte McCurdy while
she was a graduate student at the
Rhode Island School of Design. In her
thesis, “After Ancient Sunlight,” Ms.
McCurdy developed a carbon-negative,
algae-based plastic. Making the rain-
coat actually reduces the amount of

the atmospheric gas that is warming
the planet, Ms. McCurdy said.
Inspired by the way coral forms in
nature, Ginger Krieg Dosier and her
partner, Michael Dosier, use biotech-
nology to “grow” concrete bricks that
don’t require high-temperature firing,
thereby reducing energy use and
carbon emission that warm the planet.
Nutrients and micro-organisms cured
their Biocement bricks, which are
made in Durham, N.C.
Many of the projects shown range
well beyond the biosynthetic to help us
see nature and our relationship to it in
a new light. Nacadia is an immersive
therapy forest garden at the Arbore-
tum in Hoersholm, Denmark. Designed
by a landscape architect, Ulrika K.
Stigsdotter of the University of Copen-
hagen, the program puts into practice
a growing body of research that sup-
ports the idea that engagement with
nature is healing, especially for those
with post-traumatic stress disorder.
The Bamboo Theater is a domed
structure made by bending flexible and
resilient bamboo stalks and weaving
them together. The structure barely

alters its setting, yet the architect Xu
Tiantian conceived it to strengthen
social and cultural bonds in Hengkeng,
China, a remote mountain village.

MANIPULATING NATURE
The Cooper Hewitt’s curatorial team of
Caitlin Condell, Andrea Lipps and
Matilda McQuaid, working with Cube’s
Gene Bertrand and Hans Gubbels,
argues that we can’t afford to think of
nature as the implacable foe that must
be civilized, as Western culture has
long done. The difference is underlined
by examples drawn from the Cooper
Hewitt’s collection, in a section called
“Nature by Design.” In fabrics and
objects, nature is deployed as exqui-
sitely cultivated flowers and trees
useful in ornamenting lives.
But environmental challenges can
seem overwhelming, paralyzing action.

In such times, a talented designer can
compel society to respond by suc-
cinctly capturing the urgency of a
problem. A lovely water’s-eye view of a
magnificent iceberg is revealed, in a
longer glance, to be a depressingly
ubiquitous plastic bag. The photo-
manipulation “Plasticberg” by Jorge
Gamboa, a graphic designer based in
Puebla, Mexico, promotes awareness
of the need to reduce waste — and the
harsh reality that 18 billion pounds of
plastic ends up in the ocean each year.
“Plasticberg” has become an internet
sensation, a poster and a National
Geographic cover.
Images of matted masses of plastic
covering square miles of ocean have
drawn attention and resources to the
problem, which is the subject of sev-
eral displays in the “Nature” show.
Babylegs (2017-19), designed by
CLEAR (Civic Laboratory for Envi-
ronmental Action Research) and Max
Liboiron, is a monitoring device to
catch microplastics — the tiny, harmful
particles that result as plastics deterio-
rate over years. It can be dragged
behind a boat, “trawling” a filter made

from recycled infant leggings, on pon-
toons of used plastic bottles. It is a
rather elegant way to address the
problem — by recycling the harmful
leggings and bottles.

BEAST BY YEAST
Simulation seems innately unnatural,
but is becoming an important tool:
Designers are imitating structures
found in nature in human-made prod-
ucts, replacing toxic industrial ma-
terials with benign simulated ones.
Michelin, in 2017, conceived a tire
that could be created from biologically
sourced, biodegradable materials
made into intricate wirelike supports
inspired by the structure of coral. It
would replace the masses of discarded
steel-wire-reinforced rubber tires that
pile up around the world. Though still a
vision, it could never be conceptualized
without the technology of 3D printing
— ubiquitous in the exhibition — which
has the capacity to mold elaborate
three-dimensional structures using
computer instructions.
Leather may be a natural material,
but fewer herds of leather-skinned

cattle are needed in the interest of
reducing greenhouse gas emissions
and freeing up agricultural land for
more intense farming. Modern Mead-
ow, based in Brooklyn and Nutley, N.J.,
has developed an animal-free bio-
leather called Zoa that uses genetically
engineered yeast to produce collagen,
the protein in skin. It is among several
projects devising replacements for
common materials that harm the envi-
ronment. Others herald the use of
genetic modification and synthetic
biology. Issues around the manipula-
tion of living substances are controver-
sial: The Chinese researcher He
Jiankui stunned the scientific commu-
nity by claiming that he had created
the world’s first babies from genet-
ically edited embryos, hoping to make
them H.I.V. resistant.
Gene-manipulation and other biolog-
ical modifications are becoming avail-
able to independent researchers as
well as “biohackers” who are taking
the redesign of life into start-up mode.
The curators laud the proliferation of
such “citizen scientists,” but there are
risks when promising speculations are
promoted convincingly on the internet
before significant problems have been
solved or consequences disclosed.
“This can be genuinely harmful to the
field,” said Suzanne Lee, chief creative
officer at Modern Meadow, in a conver-
sation recorded for the catalog.

COSTS OF EXTINCTION
“The Substitute” is a simulation that
delivers a wallop. A computer-ani-
mated blob of pixels gradually resolves
itself into a nearly life-size male white
rhino, which paces and growls at us in
photorealistic splendor. It was derived
from Sudan, the last male of the
species, who died in 2018. He’s an ugly
brute with an oversize head and
horned protrusions that look sourced
from the evolutionary parts bin, but he
seems to gaze upon us humans accus-
ingly for our role in the tragedy of
extinction.
Now scientists are trying to bring
back the species through an experi-
mental process that includes inter-
species in vitro fertilization. The simu-
lation’s creator, Alexandra Daisy Gins-
berg, who focuses on the role of design
in biology, asks, “Will humans protect a
resurrected rhino, having neglected an
entire species?”
Michael Gallis, an urban strategist
not associated with the triennial, has
described the industrial world as heed-
lessly relying on a conception of natu-
ral resources as abundant and cheap.
The teams in the triennial guide us
toward a more sustainable future of
alternative materials and renewable,
nonpolluting resources and manufac-
turing. “Nature” shows us a post-
consumption future, in which the ur-
gency of restoring ecological function
trumps the allure of the latest gadget.

Designs on the future


ART REVIEW

Envisioning what’s possible
with algae, yeast and other
nonpolluting materials

BY JAMES S. RUSSELL

ANDREA MOHIN/THE NEW YORK TIMES

XU TIANTIAN AND DNA_DESIGN AND ARCHITECTURE; WANG ZILING

Top, the handblown bulbs of “Curiosity Cloud,” by Katharina Mischer and Thomas
Traxler. Each contains a replica of a different insect, and they glow and flutter, the result
of thermal sensors, when a visitor walks through the installation. Left, the Bamboo
Theater in Hengkeng, China, designed by Xu Tiantian. Above, “The Substitute,” a
computer-generated simulation of an extinct white rhino by Alexandra Daisy Ginsberg.

VIA ALEXANDRA DAISY GINSBERG

Michelin conceived a tire made of bio-
degradable materials.

MATT FLYNN

On display are some 60 projects
and products from around the
world that define a reconciliation
of biosphere and technosphere.

When it comes to joy in hip-hop,
Chance the Rapper has a stranglehold.
Rapping in a high-pitched ribbit, he
has become one of hip-hop’s signature
stars of the 2010s by enthusiastically
following a path others rarely even
peek down: jubilation, ecstasy, positivi-
ty, glee. It’s in his subject matter, and
it’s in his delivery — an indefatigable
belief in the power of positive rapping.
Chance, 26, got married in March,
and large swaths of his new album,
“The Big Day,” are devoted to the joys
of wedded life, a topic that has made for
very little worthwhile music. The pains
of divorce, the wounds of betrayal, the
clouds of mistrust — rich muses, all of
them. But pure marital bliss is chal-
lenging to render as richly textured.
In places here, Chance achieves that
with his musical selections; his palette

is broad. “I Got You (Always and For-
ever)” has the swing of the early 1990s
— Heavy D, the “Living Single” theme
song, and so on — and Chance opens
with an early Busta Rhymes flow
pattern. The excellent “Ballin Flossin”
takes a sample of Brandy’s “I Wanna
Be Down” and jostles it into an up-
tempo house record. “Found a Good
One (Single No More)” lays gospel
overtones atop Miami bass.
This is Chance’s real provocation on
this album: suggesting that the same
mediums that transmit sin might also
transmit salvation. Often his touch-
stone is the hybrid gospel-pop of art-
ists like Kirk Franklin and Tye Tribbett.
Add to that a lyrical approach that
emphasizes cleverness in rhyme, and
sometimes the result leans toward the
tightly wound thrill ride of musical
theater.
Take “Eternal,” which sounds like a
homework assignment a couples thera-
pist might give someone who’s gone
outside the marriage for comfort:
“Side chicks can’t take out splinters/
Side chicks make they Kool-Aid with
Splenda.” “Hot Shower” has a rumble
of a beat, but its boasts — “I’m all
professional and proper/But my baby-
mama stopped me in a meeting/Just to

Airdrop me some nudes” — aren’t
aspirational so much as taunting.
“The Big Day” is Chance’s fourth
full-length release, and though he has
made a point of referring to it as his
debut album, it feels no more fleshed
out than “Coloring Book,” from 2016
(which won the Grammy for best rap
album), and is less sonically consistent
than “Acid Rap,” from 2013. And it’s
less impressive than either of them. At
22 tracks, it’s overlong and scattered.
And while it features some impres-
sive guest appearances — a pugna-
cious DaBaby on “Hot Shower,” the
nimble Smino on “Eternal” — it also
includes some likely first-time hip-hop
collaborations — Death Cab for Cutie
on “Do You Remember,” CocoRosie on
“Roo,” Randy Newman on “5 Year
Plan” — that maybe didn’t need to
happen. (On “Zanies and Fools,” the
sung intro manages a better Newman
than Newman himself; it’s one of the
album’s standout bits.)
When Chance is at his most ecstatic,
he often cuts his lines short, interrupts
himself, leans on the primal energy of
how he enunciates his syllables. But
sometimes he allows himself to wallow,
and his talents look different when
darkened by shadows.

On this album, the most striking
lyrical moment — the one that makes
best use of his gift for unlikely rhyme
and his penchant for thick storytelling
— is the most somber. “We Go High” is
the story of how Chance almost didn’t
get what he wanted, how he got in his
own way on the path to joy. The mood
is glum and resigned, but that means
that Chance can’t rely on his own
liveliness. He opens the song holding a
knife to his own chest:
Lies on my breath, she say she couldn’t
take the smell of it
Tired of the rumors, every room had a
elephant
Tryna find her shoes, rummaging
through the skeletons
She took away sex, took me out of my
element
I tried to do the single-dad
mingle-dance
At the club with the iron in my
wrinkled pants
You could fall much faster than you
think you can
It’s cleareyed and convincing — not
the wide-eyed boasts of unchallenged
love, but the downcast acceptance of a
love you have to fight for. It’s entranc-
ing enough to make you wonder what
his divorce album might sound like.

Will odes to joy make fans happy?


ALBUM REVIEW

Chance the Rapper
attempts to convey the
jubilation of married life

BY JON CARAMANICA

Chance the Rapper’s marriage provided the bulk of his inspiration for “The Big Day.”

BURAK CINGI/REDFERNS, VIA GETTY IMAGES
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