32
always loved the water and started surfing when I was- Drawn to the culture, the fashion, and of course,
the sensation. It has a sense of community and there’s nothing
like that achy feeling after a day sharing waves with friends until
the sun sets. Surfing has shaped my life. I’ve chosen my career
and most of the locations I’ve lived to be close to a good surf spot.
The sea where I live now can get quite wild, with small clean
days followed by huge swells. I love how it’s forever changing.
It’s incredible how surfing helps to keep me physically and
mentally fit and I know that I suffer when I’m not able to surf. It
certainly makes me aware and engages me with the environment,
it also helps put into perspective what’s important and what to let
the waves wash over. Surfing’s a meditation and sadly now one
of the only environments left where you can fully escape phones
and screens. Being so completely present in the moment is a real
exercise in mindfulness.
@tootsamacginty / http://www.tootsa.com
Kate Pietrasik is founder of clothing brand Tootsa.
She lives in Hossegor, France. She rides a Phil
Grace Demibu or Christiaan Bradley Skinny Fish.