knew there must be something magical about
surfing. I’d spent a couple of years sitting on the
beach, watching my husband and our children out
in the waves, coming back in from the surf with
that post-surf adrenaline rush of excitement and
endorphins. The idea of paddling out on a surf board
all by myself, without any small child, also appealed
to me. Time for myself! I got my first surf board at the
start of last year and have been hooked ever since.
Surfing is empowering and super fun. When you’re
on a surf board, watching the waves on the horizon,
there is such a feeling of connection to nature and a
welcomed disconnect to life on land. It offers such a
great perspective on the world; completely meditative
and the only time my mind truly switches off.
It’s pretty hard to stay stressed when you’re a
surfer! My favourite moments are when we’re all out
surfing together as a family, cheering each other on.
There are so many emotions involved in catching
a wave. It can be both terrifying and intimidating
to paddle for a particularly big wave. There’s such a
sense of hope and excitement at that stage of paddling.
It’s then so satisfying to catch a good wave, and
exhilarating to drop into it. Once you’re on, it’s so
fun to ride it, to stay in the perfect pocket of the wave,
to move up and down your board to gain speed. It’s
unlike any other feeling.
@courtneyadamo / http://www.courtneyadamo.comWriter, blogger and mother of five Courtney Adamo (below,
second from the right) lives in Byron Bay, Australia. She rides a 9ft
Pinnacle board by McTavish.33