T
he soothing rumble of the
train has an intoxicating
effect as I strain my eyes to
peer through the darkened window.
A faint tap at the door announces the
arrival of our cheery car attendant.
He wishes us good night but not
before regaling us with their biggest
catastrophe, involving a collapsed
bridge and swollen river. “We lost
many that night”, he adds solemnly,
while I make a mental note to locate
the life jackets.
For two girls fresh out of university,
train travel provides an opportunity to
see as much of the US as possible.
Boarding at New York’s Penn Station
feels like climbing into a wardrobe. The
“roomette” measures a cosy 3ft by 6ft,
so it’s best to leave inhibitions—and
perhaps your belongings—at the door.
Thankfully in Chicago we switch to the
California Zephyr where the bedroom
is more spacious. It’s mercifully devoid
of technology so we spend days
reading and gazing out of the window.
Leaving Nebraska I’m rewarded
with the dramatic change in scenery
that comes with a change of state.
Colorado is an oasis of pine trees,
crystal lakes and snow-capped
mountains. As we approach the
Rockies, we encounter the long Moffat
tunnel. Perched precariously on the
narrowest part of the ledge it provides
a unique opportunity to photograph the
whole train as it curves into darkness.
I sleep through Salt Lake City and
awake to the Sierra Nevada Mountains.
We follow the Californian sun to the
coast on the final leg of our journey
west. I start to feel a strange reluctance
to trade the routine of the train for the
sprawling city of San Francisco.
It’s late afternoon when we stop to
refuel. I gaze out at a family scurrying
between their cottage and a shiny
truck. They wave to the train, then,
eager to catch the diminishing light,
return to their work. I wonder what
could drag them from this place of
solitude? But then the engine rumbles.
Train journeys are frustrating like this,
offering snippets of people’s lives. As
we ease away slowly, I take one last
look at the sweet family and smile. nTell us about your favourite holiday (send
a photo too) and if we print it we’ll pay
£50. Email [email protected]East To West
My Great Escape:
Our reader Hannah Oakes from Buckinghamshire
explores the United States by train92 • JULY 2019