JULY 2019 113Visiting... Darjeeling
I’ve visited Darjeeling since childhood – for holidays, work,
and many times just to connect with myself. This place in the
foothills of the Himalayan range – Darj, as we lovingly call
her – screams loudly “A simple life is a happy one!”
After a flight to Kolkata and connection to Bagdogra, it’s
a magical three-hour uphill road trip to Darj. The nip in
the air, the clear skies, the majestic mountains, the lush tea
plantations, the super-friendly people you pass ... all will
transport you to a whole new world.
Speaking of transport, when in Darj, take a trip on the
UNESCO World Heritage Darjeeling Himalayan Railway
(called the “Toy Train” by locals). It snakes through loops
and tunnels at high altitude, passing sleepy monasteries and
postcard scenery of the Himalayan range. Stop at Batasia
Loop and absorb the beauty of Kanchenjunga (the world’s
third-highest mountain) from afar, while gulping in steamy
momos and thupkas.
Keep a morning aside for witnessing sunrise over
Kanchenjunga from Tiger Hill – the view is an artist’s palette
of colours. (It’s rightly said that the best things in life are free!)
Offer your prayers at the Dali Monastery, whose Buddhist
chants, hums and drums will usher contentment. The Dalai
Lama once stayed here to teach. You can take in Ghum
Monastery, Peace Pagoda and Senchal Lake on the same day.
The Himalayan Mountaineering Institute deserves a visit;
Tenzing Norgay, Sir Edmund Hillary’s climbing partner, was
the first director here. The Zoological Park is close by and
worth a visit too, especially with kids.
Darjeeling tea is famed for its exotic flavour. Take a guided
tour of the Happy Valley Tea Estate and you’ll come out as
close to a tea connoisseur. Pack a few kilos for back home –
I recommend the “autumn flush” tea (take a sip and you’ll
know why).
Darjeeling will make you value life as a priceless gift. I feel
like packing my bags right away as I write this!
- SOUMITA BHATTACHARYA, INDIAN
Visiting... Kashmir
The start of my nine-day trip to India’s north proves a
challenge. I’m supposed to fly from Delhi to Amritsar, home
of the famous Golden Temple of the Sikhs. Actually, I do fly
to Amritsar; only, we can’t land on account of huge storms
thrashing the city. After circling for an age, our pilot turns
the plane around and returns to Delhi. (India 1, Shamus 0.)
The aborted flight puts my schedule out of kilter. And
that’s how I find myself – after lots of calls with a travel
agent back in Singapore – spending two nights in Srinagar,
capital of the North Indian state of Jammu and Kashmir, in
a houseboat on Dal Lake.
After a rigorous customs procedure at the airport (perhaps
reflecting the uneasy political situation in Srinagar at the
time of my visit), a cheerful guide drives me along rutted
roads to the edge of the lake where I’m deposited onto the
comfortable cushions of a traditional rowboat, or shikara.
Known as “the jewel in Kashmir’s crown”, Dal Lake is 20
square kilometres of gorgeous natural wetlands, ringed by
snow-topped mountains, and full of flowers, fish and birds.
One look and you understand why it was a popular summer
retreat during the Raj.
The lake’s famous houseboats are made of carved wood,
and some are a century old. They act as floating hotels, and
the one I get rowed to is an exquisite thing full of cedar
panelling, antique rugs and chandeliers, with a charismatic
host, Mr Din.
So, just a few hours after the dispiriting mid-air news that
Amritsar is a no-go, I find myself enjoying tea and biscuits,
looking out at kingfishers and lotuses, and a stunning
mountain backdrop, and listening to the swishing oar of the
occasional passing shikara. (India 1, Shamus 1!)- SHAMUS SILLAR, AUSTRALIAN
Keen to send some recommendations or tales of your own?
Next month we’ll be covering Australia, so get in touch at [email protected]!