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place where men went to buy jewellery for women. I, on the other
hand, wanted to create jewellery that was more in tune with a
person’s style. So breaking out of that pattern and finding a place
where my jewellery truly belonged was quite tough.
You’ve always been experimental in your designs and
materials. Is there something you haven’t done that you
want to try?
Not really, but that doesn’t mean that I’ve tried everything. I’ve
always been fascinated by the incredible amount of craftsmanship
and skill that go into jewellery-making, so over the years I may
have incorporated nearly every technique there is into my work.
I’ve done engraving, enamelling, and used unique materials like
ceramic. In that respect, I’m open to what may come, but every
now and then, I try to get ahead of the trend as well.
You mean in your material selection?
Precisely. I’m always looking for new materials that aren’t
typically being used in fine jewellery. I’ve had pieces made
with elements that were unheard of, for instance, from silver
obsidians—I sold a silver obsidian ring to Madonna once—to
fossilised dinosaur bones. The most important thing is that
there’s got to be an attraction for it.
Let’s talk about your latest Dynamite collection. What’s
the story behind it?
It’s a contemplation of the world we’re living in right now. It
started with Brexit, to be honest, when we’re all like “wow,
that’s weird, why did we do that?” It’s actually a preface to the
trilogy comprising the Dynamite, Jitterbug and Vertigo chapters.
There’s this huge uncertainty over what’s happening and what’s
to come, so Dynamite is about blowing it all up and eventually
rebuilding it into something new. The idea here is to put the
remaining bits and pieces together, turning to nature to hatch
new kinds of bugs, which is how we get the horse-fly, cuckoo
bee, bull beetle-inspired jewellery for Jitterbug—they all sound
like make-believe creations. The series culminate in Vertigo,
which is about this new world that needs some getting used to.
Stephen Webster