FOOD PREPARATION AND PHOTOGRAPHY/ GORDON HAMERSLEYUA The Upland Kitchen
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Fiona's Birthday Grouse and Woodcock
Stuffing
L
ate in autumn, here in New
England, many grouse hunters
begin to move out of the coverts
when the rifle deer season starts.
Our time in the woods is long
compared to theirs, and out of respect for
their short number of days afield, we put
the brakes on bird hunting for a couple of
weeks. For us, it’s like having two seasons.
The first starts during the mild, waning
days of summer when leaves are still on
the trees and birds are elusive and ends just
before Thanksgiving. The second begins in
early winter and finishes with us following
grouse on snowshoes hoping for a last,
long shot before it wraps up until next year. In between are
Thanksgiving and my wife Fiona’s birthday. This year they fall
on the same day.
The menu is almost set. The big bird, as always, will take
center stage, but the side dishes are what Fiona likes best.
Glazed Brussels sprouts with bacon, caramelized celery root
with fresh grated horseradish, Parmesan-crusted cauliflower,
creamy garlic potatoes and some variety of stuffing all are
players in the traditional feast at our house.
This year I’ll combine grouse and woodcock and add it
to the stuffing ingredients. It’s the perfect spot to use those
neglected legs and thighs from past recipes or birds that have
been shot up a bit and are not quite suitable for a pristine roast.
Adding a bit of ground smoked bacon works to keep it allmoist. If you don’t have a grinder at home, use a large, sharp
knife and mince it as fine as possible. This works well, too.
This stuffing is designed to be cooked in a baking dish, but
should you wish to spoon it into the cavity of a big pheasant
or your turkey, have at it. Cut your vegetables with care in a
uniform small dice, and then let them cook long enough so they
are nice and tender. Sage and thyme are the herbs that enhance
fall food the best. As always, season each stage as you go.
Ciabatta is the bread of choice, but any quality light, rustic
bread like sourdough or even a baguette trimmed of some of its
hard crusts will work well. Take the time to let the bread absorb
the stock and juices by popping it in the refrigerator for about
30 minutes before it goes in the oven. Cooking the stuffing
covered for the first 40 minutes sets the eggs and commingles
all the flavors. Removing the cover
for the last 15 minutes lets the top get
nice and brown. The result is stuffing
that has a soft bottom layer and a
crunchy, golden brown top.
I’ll likely not make a pie for
dessert this year because Fiona
isn’t really a pie person at heart.
But what about a big French-style
pavlova with cranberries and toasted
walnuts? Maybe with a big spoon
of freshly whipped cream on top
or perhaps some ginger-infused ice
cream. It won’t be very traditional
but then again, neither is Fiona.
Happy birthday, Fiona, and Happy
Thanksgiving All!