Professional Photographer - USA (2019-10)

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LIGHTING TUTORIALTHE GOODS


HARD LIGHT
I’ve seen many images in which a pattern
of shadows is projected onto someone’s
face, and I used to struggle to simulate this
type of lighting. Though it took a number of

attempts, I finally learned how to achieve
this effect to my satisfaction.
There are two ways you can attain
sharply defined shadows: with a small light
source far from the pattern—hard light—

or with a specialty modifier that uses lens-
es to focus the pattern on your subject. I
don’t have a lot of experience with the lat-
ter, so I’ll focus on the former.
I wanted the hardest light possible. I
began with an LED light with a fresnel at-
tachment, which worked well except for the
part where I was shining the equivalent
of 650 watts of light into someone’s eyes.
I saw other photographers using a silver
beauty dish with success, but my efforts to
duplicate the technique fell short.
Success came in the form of a Profoto
Hardbox. A Hardbox is a black metal box
with an opening on one side that positions
the flash head perpendicular to the subject,
exposing the flash tube to them in profile.
The result is a tiny light source that pro-
duces hard light.
With the Hardbox about 5 feet away from
the model, David Kushnir, I was able to proj-
ect a sharp pattern through a common ra-
diator screen. In a dark room with the only
light coming from the modeling light in the
Hardbox, I was able to move the screen clos-
er and further away from the subject until
I saw the Union Jack-like pattern displayed
across the model’s face in the way I wanted.
I lit the model from the other side using
a Mola Rayo, a 15-inch silver beauty dish.
You can use anything for the main light
source as long as it’s small and produces
contrast. The pattern would never exist if
it didn’t live in the shadow produced by the
main source.
The problem was that I didn’t want the
pattern in the model’s nose shadow, which
was created by the main light. I recalled
learning how to dodge and burn in the
darkroom, so I taped a piece of cinefoil to a
metal straw and went to work. In this ex-
ample, I asked stylist Pablo Roberto to hold
the tiny flag in place. In subsequent sessions
I’ve simply used a grip head to hold the straw.
I needed to add one more thing before the
image was complete: a flag at the top edge
of the main light so the light would fall off
on the top of the model’s head, ensuring the
viewer’s focus would be drawn to his eyes.
Eventually I realized I could get the Hard-
box look with a standard reflector, I just
had to move the light a lot farther away,
around 13 feet from the subject.
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