_ June 2019
I
Where to Start
The guy at Stumptown
says I want my water to be
196 degrees for the best
extraction. Seriously, 196?
THE OPTIMAL EXTRACTION temperature is
somewhere between 195 to 205 F. If you’re
working without a thermometer, a good
rule of thumb is to let your water come to a
boil and then wait 30 seconds before begin-
ning to pour. A kitchen thermometer like a
Thermapen ($80; thermoworks.com) is a
great investment.
FOUND THE BEST coffee in the world in Dingle, Ireland, one summer in college when
I was aimlessly backpacking around. I’d wandered into a small stone-carving shop to
cool off, and made friends with the dog keeping idle guard—apparently a good enough
reason for the proprietor, an old Italian man, to offer me a coffee. I can’t remember
if he served it with cream or with a lemon peel; if there were floral notes or chocolaty
undertones; if it was espresso or Americano or simple drip coffee. What I do remem-
ber is sitting in the tiny garden beside his home as he talked to me about his art and
what he missed about Italy, sipping slowly and feeling both calmed and energized. The
caffeine is an objective boost, yes. But coffee’s also personal. Something easy to share.
And despite what the recent proliferation of intimidating, blond-wood-and-Edison-
lightbulb cafés would have you believe, it’s easy to make, too.
Here’s the real secret to coffee: What matters isn’t mastering some trendy new pro-
cess; it’s figuring out what you enjoy and making sure you can brew it consistently. Half
of that is chemistry: ratio, temperature, and time. The other half is atmosphere.
We can help with the first half.
- SCALE
Peter Giuliano, chief
research officer at the
Specialty Coffee Asso-
ciation (SCA), says most
people like their coffee
best when 1.15 to 1.35
percent coffee solids
make it into the brew,
and it has an extraction
of 18 to 22 percent.
What that means
in practice is that you
should have a ratio of
about 60 grams dry
coffee per one liter
water. (For a stron-
ger cup, don’t brew it
longer—that’ll turn it
bitter. Just add more
grounds.) Your scale
should measure over
one kilogram, to at
least one decimal
place. Most jewelry
scales will do the trick;
we also like the Acaia
Pearl Bluetooth scale
($14 0; acaia .co).
- GRINDER
Get a burr grinder.
Blade grinders—which
are cheaper and more
common—don’t work
as well for coffee.
They slice the beans
into uneven particles,
which can throw off
the extraction process.
Burr grinders instead
pulverize the beans
into a consistent size.
Make sure you get one
with metal, not plastic,
burrs. We recommend
the Baratza Virtuoso
($230; baratza .com).
3. BEANS
There’s no hard rule
on how much to
spend, but “if you
see cheap coffee, it’s
almost certainly too
good to be true,” says
Christopher Hendon,
a chemistry professor
at the University of
Oregon who’s studied
coffee extensively.
He usually stays in
the range of $15 to
$20 per bag. “You get
probably 20 cups of
coffee out of one bag.
That’s like $1 a cup,
and it’ll make
you extremely
happy.”
What’s a good
pour-over system?
Also: Isn’t it a little fussy?
THE IMPORTANT PART of a pour-over sys-
tem is the brewer itself—functionally, it’s
the basket where the filter sits, removed
from an automatic coffeemaker and
plopped on top of your mug of choice. The
Hario V60 (page 52) is more or less the
industry standard. Once you’ve heated your
water and measured out your grounds, it’s
pretty straightforward, but you do have to
stand there pouring slowly for the entire
process—usually about two and a half to
three minutes.
What is the best
drip machine?
THE GOOD PEOPLE at the SCA can answer
that question for you. Teaming up with the
coffee lab at UC Davis, they run tests on con-
sumer drip brewers to determine which
machines hit all the right qualifications.
“Most brewers don’t pass that test,” Giuliano
says. He’s not kidding. The SCA currently
lists a mere 23 approved brew machines on
its website, including the Bonavita Connois-
seur (page 52).
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