Crown Shy, arguably New York City’s best new restaurant
of 2019, made a lot of sure-footed decisions with its eclectic
menu and soaring, light-filled spaces. Another noteworthy
newbie is Portale, an outstanding American-Italian eat-
ery created by much acclaimed chef Alfred Portale and
ensconced in a renovated carriage house. At the finest
Chinese restaurants there had traditionally been a re-
strained elegance, but with the arrival of Hutong from
Hong Kong, all of that has been replaced with excit-
ing excess. Theatrical magic abounds, with dishes to
match. Pastis, a former Meatpacking District bistro, is
back with a bang, its fare beyond fabulous. At French-
ette, a casual setting is coupled with outstandingly
prepared dishes. Avra Madison is packed—and de-
servedly so. Perry St’s fantastic food just seems to get
better and better. Renowned for its classic red-sauce
Italian cooking and outsize portions, Carbone contin-
ues to deliver the goods with efficiently brusque wait-
ers and movie-perfect “Little Italy” decor. The veal
Parmesan is perfection. Gabriel Kreuther’s haute cui-
sine has a distinctive Alsatian flavor and is impeccably
served in a casually elegant, modern setting. Vaucluse
successfully recreates the kind of French restaurant
that was once so prevalent with its flawless service, ex-
quisite offerings and reassuringly refined atmosphere.DECEMBER 31, 20 19 FORBES.COM2019 Restaurant Review Cont.+++
ABC Kitchen
Ai Fiori
Antonucci Cafe
Aretsky’s Patroon
Avra Madison
Café Boulud
Carbone
Crown Shy
Frenchette
Gabriel Kreuther
GemHutong
JoJo
Junoon
La Goulue
L’Artusi
Le Coucou
Leonti
Maialino
The Mark Restaurant
Michael’s
MisiNoMad
Nur
Pastis
Perry St
Portale
Porter House Bar and Grill
The Simone
Tocqueville
Union Square Cafe
Vaucluse
Wayan22
FACT^&COMMENTCrown Shy: Grilled pear salad,
Meredith feta, pistachioNur: Jerusalem sesame bagel with cumin and
lima bean messabaha with shipka peppersMaialino: Lamb chop Scottadita with
charred fennel and green onion agrodolcePortale: Carpaccio short rib,
arugula Pecorino Pepato and
anchovy caper emulsion