National Geographic - USA (2020-01)

(Antfer) #1

IN 1939 A GERMAN-BORN SHOEMAKER named Peter Limmer got the
first U.S. patent for a “ski boot”—a stiff, square-toed leather shoe made
to order. Today, gray-bearded Peter Limmer III hammers out about
200 pairs of hiking boots a year using his grandfather’s tools in the
Intervale, New Hampshire, shop his grandfather opened. There’s a per-
petual waiting list for the custom boots, priced at $775 and up; loyalists
come from as far away as Tasmania for final boot fittings. Limmer, 63,
still loves his work. “The best part,” he says, “is seeing customers dance
in the driveway with their new boots on.” —JENNIFER S. HOLLAND



  1. Lasting pincers
    These two blue-handled
    tools are part leather grab-
    ber, part hammer, used to
    stretch and form leather
    over a foot model (10).

  2. Jack stand
    This steel device holds a
    shoe upside down for rel-
    atively quick work on the
    sole or heel.

  3. Rubber cement pot
    Limmer has used his grand-
    father’s glue-crusted pot
    for 45 years. Cordwainers—
    another word for shoemak-
    ers—brush the adhesive
    on soles to attach them to
    shoes’ undersides.

  4. Jack stand with vise
    Used for custom work,
    it has a soft, leather-
    wrapped rest for the toe
    of a nylon (shown) or
    wooden foot model.

  5. Nail nippers
    For pulling out and cutting
    nails used in boots.

  6. Button hooks
    “Back when shoes had
    tiny buttons, they helped
    cobblers with fat fingers,”
    Limmer says of these
    100-year-old hooks.

  7. Rotary hole punch
    This cuts the holes for
    bootlace hooks.

  8. Tools, back to front:
    Rasp, for sanding and shap-
    ing; knife sharpener; striker,
    for smoothing knife edges;
    and mandrel, for setting
    nails and smoothing rough
    spots inside the boot.

  9. Cordwainer’s hammers
    Hammers for tamping
    soles and tapping nails
    and tacks, such as those
    in the dish near the tools.

  10. Wooden foot model
    Limmer puts additions
    on standard-size models
    until they match the mea-
    surements of customers’
    feet. Boots are built
    directly on the models;
    Limmer says “strong mus-
    cles and a beer belly help”
    when it’s time to pull the
    models out of the boots.


PHOTOGRAPH BY HANNAH WHITAKER

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JANUARY 2020 31
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