Absolutely+Home+-+Spring+2019

(C. Jardin) #1
NETHERTON FOUNDRY
DOME AND CLOCHE
This is an oven-within-an-oven
that creates an intensely hot space
in which your bread can thrive and
achieve the perfect crust.
netherton-foundry.co.uk

KILNER JARS
Lots of these. It’s worth having
more than one starter on the go.

PROVING BASKETS
TIP: cover them with shower
caps; it’s more sustainable
than clingfilm.

SOURDOUGH KIT
YOU WILL NEED...

Once you have a


thriving starter,


breadmaking is


a rhythm


HOME ž SPRING 2019 77

LIVING |BAKING


Making your own sourdough is


satisfying and sustainable.


But learn to love the mess


Words PENDLE HARTE

Daily


bread


go at once, lining the shelves of your dream
kitchen not with pretty jars of colourful pulses
but with growing (possibly overflowing) bac-
teria with a mind of its own.
But it is all worth it. Once you have a thriving
starter (it take about five days), breadmaking
is a rhythm that may or may not fit with your
existing routine. Sourdough takes longer to
rise than yeast-based dough, so it can be left
overnight and then proved again – you’ll need
to get to know your timings and your kitchen’s
warm and cold spots. Anyone obsessed with
lovely empty surfaces might not appreciate
baskets of dough covered with comedy shower
caps carefully placed on windowledges and
strategic spots near radiators, but breadmak-
ing is a labour of love. You’ll learn to love the
thin dusting of flour that will inevitably cover
your kitchen, as well as the new sounds your
oven will make as it comes to terms with its
highest setting. But the taste, and the gut
benefits, make it all worth it.

W


hat could be more sat-
isfying than a fresh
loaf of crispy, fragrant
sourdough? Don’t we all
have a fantasy version
of ourselves where we
are effortlessly removing perfectly cooked,
springy loaves from our domestic ovens,
feeling capable and connected to the earth,
part of a long-standing human tradition? It’s
not hard to understand why an interest in
baking bread is something that often dawns
on people trying to find new meaning in their
lives, while focusing on sourdough has count-
less benefits for gut health. And as a hobby,
breadmaking fulfills a variety of needs. It oc-
cupies time, it’s creative, there’s lots of scope
for variety and improvement. There’s even
quite a lot of kit that you can acquire. What’s
not to like?
Well there is quite a lot not to like actually.
Getting the starter right is the very first thing
you need to do, and while the instructions
are simple – as any enthusiast will tell you
repeatedly – this fertile mix of flour and water
is needy and messy. Regular top-ups require
the scooping out of some of it and throwing
it away, and any resulting drips will instantly
turn into cement needing to be scraped vig-
orously off the countertop/floor. The starter
will sit unattractively in a kilner jar, bubbling
ominously, until the temperature becomes too
warm or too cold, when it might give up the
ghost. Your best bet is to have several on the

HOME_Spring19_SOURDOUGH.indd 77 01/04/2019 16:08

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