Popular Science - USA (2020 - Spring)

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I’ve had a fascination with beer for a long time.
I had my first one in Bavaria in 1961 when I was


  1. It was legal there, but when I got back to
    New York, the drinking age was 18. One time, I
    wanted a pint so badly, I dressed in lederhosen,
    went to a nearby tavern, and pretended I was
    German. It worked—they actually served me.
    I began studying alcoholic beverages in the
    1990s at the University of Pennsylvania
    Museum, where I now direct the Biomolecular
    Archaeology Project. My colleagues and I had
    been researching the design and engineering of
    ancient pottery, but inevitably we started to
    wonder what had been inside those jugs.
    Around that time, an archaeologist working
    in Iran brought us a roughly 5,500- year- old
    vessel with an unusual residue inside. It looked
    like calcium oxalate: a yellowish, crystalline res-
    idue that modern brewers call “beerstone.” It
    can harbor microorganisms that may warp a
    batch’s flavor or even be poisonous.
    When we compared the residue with a
    sample from a local brewery, they were virtually
    identical. Combined with the fact that the criss-
    crossed lines on the container matched those of
    the Sumerian symbol for beer (kaş), we were
    confident that we had found the oldest-known
    evidence of draft production.
    New discoveries always pop up. In 2018, a
    team in Israel found a 13,000- year-old recepta-
    cle with potential brewing evidence. I think beer
    goes back to our species’ beginnings. If sugars
    were there to ferment, humans were probably
    trying to get that buzz I felt back in Bavaria.


In 2007, I started a position
at the urban entomology
lab at the University of Flor-
ida. At the time, bedbugs
were spreading around the
United States—after a long
period of quiescence—so a
lot of research was focused
on understanding and
controlling the insects.
Bedbugs are ancient
critters with diets made up
entirely of blood. Before
they developed their taste
for humans, they dwelled in
caves and fed on bats.
When our species moved
into the caves, we became
one of their main meal
sources. Eventually we gave
them a free ride to our
more- modern residences.
They’ve had millennia to
get to know us. To become
scientifically acquainted
with them, we needed to
collect the bugs in the field
and recolonize them in

the lab, where we could
scrutinize their behaviors.
My colleagues and I vis-
ited homes heavily infested
with the common bedbug,
Cimex lectularius. Once,
however, we found a small
infestation of a far rarer
variety in the US: tropical
bedbugs, or C. hemipterus,
whose behavior we know
less about. We needed to
boost their numbers in the
lab to effectively study
them, which meant we had
to feed them. You can put
rabbit blood inside paraffin
film to mimic skin, but bed-
bugs can have trouble
biting it. Instead, I put their
cage on my arm or leg and
just let them feed for a bit. It
gets uncomfortable when
you have around 100 on
your skin, but I can’t ask my
students to do it. It’s far
more ethical to ask myself—
and I’m very agreeable.

PATRICK MCGOVERN,SCIENTIFIC DIRECTOR OF
THE BIOMOLECULAR ARCHAEOLOGY PROJECT
AT THE UNIVERSITY OF PENNSYLVANIA MUSEUM

ROBERTO PEREIRA,ENTOMOLOGIST
AT THE UNIVERSITY OF FLORIDA

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SPRING 2020 / POPSCI.COM
108
i let bedbugs feast
on me—for science
beer has
always been
on the table
as
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