New York Magazine - USA (2020-03-02)

(Antfer) #1
30 THECUT|MARCH 2 15, 2020

2000 AnIdeaIs Born
ThetwofriendsmovetoNewYork
andbeginworkinginfashion,
CarolatBally(aftera stintasan
investmentbanker)andHumberto
atBurberry.InApril,theyvisit
HongKong:Theyshop,meet
designers,eat,andgetmassages.
Theyal
they’ll t
andbringbackwhattheyfind.
Carol:Ontheplane,wewerelike,
“Everyonewouldloveallthisstuff!”

2001 ‘Let’sDoThis’
CarolandHumbertomeetevery
Sundaytohashouta business
planoverdimsum—cheungfun
(shrimpricerolls),turnipcakes,
chivedumplings,andporkbuns—
atJingFongonElizabethStreet.
Thehardpartiscomingup
a
to d toberootedin
theideaoftravel.We kept
throwingoutnameslike“Terminal”
andthenwewouldbelike,“Oh

myGod,no.Thatsoundslike
‘terminallyill.’ ”
C:They allseemedsopretentious.
H:OurfriendShannonHanwas
like,“Whatabout‘Opening
Ceremony?’” Andwewerelike,
“Y oucan’t reallymake funof
that.”Ceremonyis a hardwordto
bebitchyabout.

END OF AN ERA

“You Had to Be There”

ByEmiliaPetrarca

atthestartofthisyear, OpeningCeremony announcedit hadbeenboughtbytheNew
GuardsGroupandwouldbeclosingitsfourretaillocations:theflagshiponHoward
Street,whereit allstarted;theshopintheAceHotelnearMadisonSquare;andthestores
inLosAngelesandTokyo(whichwasthefirsttoshut).OCwasfoundedin 2002 bybest friends
CarolLimandHumbertoLeon,whomet assophomoresat UCBerkeley(“Webondedoverher
studying,megoingout,meforcinghertogo out,andmenotstudy-
ing,”Humbertooncesaid).In everythingthey did,they operated
oninstinct andenthusiasm.It paidoff. OCquicklybecamethe
definingstoreofitsera—ahubforthefashion-curiousseekingnew
brandsfrombotharoundtheglobeandemerginglocaltalent.
Many NewYorkersfirstmet Acne,AlexanderWang,andeven
Havaianasthere.TheSoholocationwasa clubhousefortheworld
famousanddowntownfamous,whoallconsideredthemselves
“family.” Butit alsostrovetobea placewhereanyonecouldhang
out.“It’s like yourfavoriterecordstore,buta clothingstore,”ChloëSevignytoldthismagazinein
2010,shortlyafterthecompany expandedtoJapan.But,aswithrecordstoresbeforeit,themusic
movedelsewhere.“Youhadtobethere,” saysHumberto.

35 HowardStreet,where itallbegan.

CarolLimandHumbertoLeon
asBerkeleyundergradsin1995.


Riffing on the idea of the
Olympics, they decide that each
year will be dedicated to a
different country, with designers
from around the world
“competing” with local ones.
August They each have $10,000
saved up and give notice at work.
H: We thought we were loaded.
September After 9/11, they take
their bosses’ advice to not leave their
jobs after all. But a couple of months
later, they decide they can’t undream
their dream. They find their way to
a pro bono business adviser at Pace
University, where they get help
drafting a real business plan.
H: The original was like, “Our
store is going to be open from
9 a.m. to midnight, maybe 2 a.m.
We’re going to have a register that
sits on this big lazy Susan, and
then at 8 p.m., the lazy Susan turns
from a register to a DJ booth.
Basically, we think all our friends
are going to want to hang out and
shop until two.” But they were
like, “Guys, banks don’t want to
see anything about a lazy Susan.”
C: We still have the version
with the lazy Susan. In the next
iteration, it’ll come back.
2002 Howard Street Is Home
A bank loans them $20,000, and
they rent a former fabric store with
a “massage parlor” in the
basement on an out-of-the-way
stretch at the southern terminus of

An oral history of

Opening Ceremony,

New York’s most
downtown-y retail

store, on the

eve of its closing.
By Emilia Petrarca

2013
The tote.
Free download pdf