New York Magazine - USA (2020-03-02)

(Antfer) #1
32 THECUT|MARCH2–15, 2020

towalkinto,soI madesurethat,if
it wasgoingtobea clubhouse,we
welcomedeveryoneintotheclub.
If youarea retailassociate,youare
a customer’sfriend.Youarealsoa
st ylist;you’renotjust selling
clothes.Someofthoselooksare
reallydifficulttoputtogether.
Thatsaid,it increasingly
becomesa placeforcelebrities
toshop.
Jacky:Onetime,LindsayLohan,
KimKardashian,andChloë
Sevigny allcameintothestoreat
once.It hadneverreallyoccurred
tomethattherecouldbemore
thanoneVIPata time.Lindsay
cameinfirst. Sheliveddownthe
street, soshecameinoften.Sowe
blockedouta fittingroomforher,
thenKimcameinwithKris
Jennerandwewerelike, “Uh...
wedon’t havea fittingroomfor
Kim.”I hadtoaskKimif she
wouldsharea fit tingroomwith
Lindsay. Luckily, Chloëjust came
intopicksomethingup.I’mnot
evensureshewasawarethat was
allgoingon.
2008 YearofJapan
MarchInaninterview,Chloë
Sevignyisaskedwhomshewould
everwanttocollaboratewithona
fashionline,andshesays,
“OpeningCeremony.” Humberto
askshertolunchtoseeif she’s
serious.Sheis:Thecollectionisa
hugehit,andtheycollaborate
manymoretimes.
ChloëSevigny:I startedseeing
thoseDiamondsweatshirts
aroundtown,andI waslike,
Whomakesthose?Sothat wasthe
introduction.AndthenI guess
I sawH
[likeS
Somuchoffashionand
streetweartriestobesocool,
buttheyweremoreaboutfamily.

CarolandHumbertohavethis
can-doat titude,andthere’s no
cynicism.None.No “Ughs!”or
eye-roll-yfashionstuff,ever.
AugustTheykeepthestoreopen
for 72 hoursstraighttocelebrate
theOlympics.
Jacky: We didanin-storedance
party withHerculesandLove
Affair. We didastrologyreadings
withSusanMiller. We dida
double-DutchcontestandPing-
Pongtournament.It wasa feat to
convincestaffmemberstostart
theirshiftsat 5 a.m.
Bynow,OChasitsownblog,
withfoodmapsforeverycity
andnewmusic.
C:Oneofourmostpopular
columnswascalled“WishYou
WereHere,”andwewouldtake
picturesofwhereverwewenton
ourtrips.Onetime,ourfriend
visiteda reallysmallvillagein
Ireland,andhewaswearingthe
Diamondsweatshirt. A girlwho
workedat thepubknew what it
wasbecauseshereadtheblog.He
saidshetalkedaboutthestoreand
usasif sheknewus.
2009 TheScale-Up
Whichmeans
e-commerce,more
collaborations,a
biggerwholesale
operation,anda store
inJapan.
Olivia:I reallydo
believeOpening
Ceremonyputthe
conceptof
collaborationsonthe
mapforretailstores.
C:Mostofthetime,[brands]had
noideawhowewereorwhatwe
wereabout,sowewerealwaysup
tothechallengeofshowingthem
andprovinga collaboration
throughourlenscouldopenup
theirbrandstoa new audience.
Intheire-commerce,store
employeesandonetimeinterns,
likeAnnaGray,are castasmodels.
AnnaGray:Everyonethatworked
inthestorecould,ina pinch,bean
e-commmodel.Therewerealways
n and
ut e ne
man!”Theshootswerea shitshow,
butina funway. I alsodoubledas
anintern,andI wouldjustgo there

forsomanyhoursallthetimeand
I waspaidintrade.Theydid
feedmelunch,though.
AugustOCpartnerswiththe
Japaneseholdingcompany
Onwardtoopenitsfirststore in
Tokyoaftera buyingtripleaves
themdisappointed.Kirsten
Dunst,JasonSchwartzman,
AndySamberg,andtheOlsen
twinsallattendtheopening.
SeptemberOCcollaborateswith
SpikeJonzeonaWheretheWild
ThingsArecollection.Theysell
outofthe$610furryadultonesie
withearsanda tailinonehour.
H:I wasintroducedtoSpike
throughJasonSchwartzmanat
Jason’s mom’s Christmasparty.
Webecamebest friendsovernight.
WhenWheretheWildThingsAre
cameout,wedecidedtodoan
entirefaux-furcollectionbasedon
eachWildThing.He waslike,
“Who’s goingtowantthat?”And
wewerelike,“Trustus.” Theday
thatit launched,thefirstperson
thatcamethroughthedoorwas
Jake Gyllenhaaltobuythat Max
outfit.He neededit.

2010 Yearof France
CarolSong,formerbuying
director:Whenwefirststarted
withsmallercountries,it washard
toget moreestablisheddesigners
tounderstandwhat wewere
doing.WhenwedidFr ance,we
wereabletoget a lotofcoolyoung
Frenchdesignersandthen
someoneasestablishedasJean
PaulGaultier.
FebruaryTheyopenanoutpost
insidetheAceHotelnearMadison
Square,whichsellssouvenirslike
AlexanderWangtotebags.
SolangeandtheDirtyProjectors
playattheopeningparty.
JuneTheyexpandnextdoorin
Sohoto 33 Howard,previously
hometoa “hairsalon” thatwas,

curiously,notopenduringthe
day.Ofcourse,theythrowanother
pre-renovationparty.Thistime,
Beyoncécomes.
JesseHudnutt,formersales
associatewhobecamemen’s
buyingdirector:It was 90 percent
shopkids,butHumbertois good
friendswithSolange,andBeyoncé
came,andit waskindofjust...
chill?Wewerealldancing
togetherinthislittlespace.
2011 Yearof Argentina
FebruaryOCcollaborateswith
Rodarteona ready-to-wear
collection.
JulyCarolandHumbertoare
appointedcreativedirectors
atKenzo.
C:Wehadbeenapproachedto
workonotherbrandsandother
lines,butwethoughtabout
brandsthat we’d beexcitedabout
andKenzowasonthatlist.
Thefirstbighit,ofcourse,is
a sweatshirt(witha tigeronit).
NovemberRihanna’sTalkThat
Talkalbumcomesoutwithher
wearinganOCsale-rackdresson
thecover.
MelOttenberg,
stylist:The
nightbeforethe
covershoot,
I wantedto
changeherlook
fora newera.
I ranovertoOC,
whichis a block
frommystudio,
andfoundanOpeningCeremony
camominidressona salerackin
thebasement.

2012 Yearof Korea
SeptemberOCcelebratesitstenth
anniversarywitha Rizzolibook
anda partyatWebsterHall.
Phillips:Theideawasthat every
roomwouldbea different
legendary NewYorkparty.We
hadevery amazingDJ, every
promoter,everycrew ofkidsfrom

ChloëSevignywearingChloë
SevignyforOCin 2010.

2011
Rihannawears
OConheralbum
cover.

2009
‘Wherethe
Wild
ThingsAre’
collection.

With Ashley, left, and Mary-Kate Olsen at
the Tokyo store opening in 2009.


The Tokyo store’s new location opened in 2013.

JUNKO KIMURA/GETTY IMAGES (OLSENS); KT AULETA (CHLOË SEVIGNY); GETTY IMAGES (BEYONCÉ, SYD MEAD); COURTESY OF OPENING CEREMONY (REMAINING)

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