60 newyork| march2–15, 2020
EatingHistoryThenewGage&Tollnermenuis full
ofoldclassics(anda touchof uni).PARKER
HOUSE ROLLS
“We felt strongly about
putting Parker House
rolls on the menu,”
says Kim. “Edna Lewis
was big on dinner
rolls.”PORK POTPIE
Never mind turkey.
Forget about chicken.
This potpie is filled
with pork—shoulder
and belly—and crowned
with a laminated pâte
brisée crust.BLOOD-ORANGETART
Seasonal-fruitdesserts
likethiswillcomeandgo.
Wintermeanscitrus,layered
withfrangipaneand
garnishedwithvanilla ice
creamfora Creamsicle effect.food / openingsCHEESECAKE
With Junior’s practically
around the corner, pastry chef
Caroline Schiff distinguishes her
version with chèvre in place of
cream cheese, a streusel crust,
and a seasonal garnish (candied
Meyerlemonfor now).BAKED ALASKA
The whimsical shape of Schiff ’s
baked Alaska was inspired
by her own impressively
gravity-defying hair; inside the
meringue lie layers of
housemadevanilla, chocolate,
andfresh-mintice cream.DEVILS & ANGELS ON
HORSEBACK
Not one but two delicious
things (almond-stuffed
dates and sea scallops)
get wrapped in
house-smoked, molasses-
glazedbacon.CREAMED SPINACH
The Ur-steakhouse
side, larded with soubise
and béchamel and
seasoned with nutmeg and
preserved lemon.SHE-CRAB SOUP
Edna Lewis made
it famous; Kim and
Shepard’s version also
incorporates crab roe
and sherry.SHRIMP
SCAMPI
Kim’s nod to the restaurant’s
last owner, Joe Chirico,
who added an Italian-
American flair to the menu.
Thebutter-broiled shrimp
comewithricotta gnudi,
notlinguine.BONE-IN RIB EYE
The steak is dry-aged,
butchered in house, and
priced per ounce; you can
get it with salsa verde
or garlic confit and a side of
scallopedpotatoes.SEA SCALLOPS
These sea scallops may not
be wrapped in bacon,
but they’re bathed in butter,
plopped on sunchoke
purée,andsurrounded by
a smallarmyof uni.