CANONSCHOOL
90 http://www.digitalcameraworld.com
What is the point
of using ISO12,800
or more?
Jane Nickleby, LancasterBRIAN SAYS... Noise
may be less important
than being able to get a
sharp shot. I’ve recently
taken a set of birds in flight
shots in dim, overcast
conditions, where
ISO10,000 allowed me to
use a 1/2000 sec shutter
speed for sharp shots.My EOS R shows
f/00 when I use
my Samyang RF
14mm, is this a
camera or lens
problem?
Tim Martin, KingstonBRIAN SAYS... There are
two versions of the
Samyang RF 14mm. One
is manual focus and you
set the aperture on the
lens. The other, more
expensive, has contacts
on the back to talk with the
camera –here the AF and
aperture are controlled by
the camera. I think you
have the manual one.Can you trigger
studio lights with
slave cells using
the EOS 250D?
Harry Grellman,
LeicesterBRIAN SAYS... The EOS
250D built-in flash uses
E-TTL flash metering, this
means the camera uses a
pre-flash before the
picture is taken. This can
trigger the studio lights
before the shutter opens,
there’s no way to avoid this
with the built-in flash. You
need a Speedlite that can
be set to manual power to
avoid the pre-flash.I’d like to see less noise in night-time
shots at higher ISOs, do noise reductionsettings really make a difference?
Jessica Earnshaw, DenbighBRIAN SAYS... Most cameras have five options for high ISO
noise reduction, Disable, Low, Standard, High and Multi-shot.
The more noise reduction you select the more you
compromise detail in your shots. Multi-shot noise reduction
can only be used when shooting JPEGs and static subjects.
It takes a series of four separate shots, then averages out
the noise to create a reduced noise file. If you shoot in Raw,
however, you could process the photo with different noise
settings to see which is best for you. Most image editing
software includes tools for reducing the noise in pictures.
Typically they smooth the image, sacrificing some fine detail
while clearing the noise.Taken at ISO10,000 with multi-shot noise reduction, this JPEG has
very little noise, but has lost some of the finer detailsWhat’s the best way to
focus in low light with an
EOS 6D using Live View?
Rob Young, AylesburyBRIAN SAYS... When you use Live
View there’s a choice of AF methods,
using either the image sensor or the
camera’s regular AF sensor. The sensor
is less reliable in low light, especially if
the subject is out of focus. If this is the
case, use Quick AF. Half-press the
shutter, the mirror drops, AF is carried
out and the mirror raises to resume
Live View. If you then press the shutter
all the way down the photo is taken.Choose quick AF for accurate focus on the EOS
6D when shooting in low light with Live ViewCameras can change the number of shots
taken with auto exposure bracketingI’ve seen recommendations to
block the viewfinder when doinglong exposure shots, why?
Chip Beaudette, Georgia, USABRIAN SAYS... When the mirror on a DSLR raises it
moves out of the optical path, but is rarely a 100 per
cent light seal for light entering the viewfinder. With
long exposures this additional light entering the mirror
box can affect the exposure. This is more so at night
where you might be using a torch behind the camera to
see what is happening. For this reason most cameras
have a small rubber eyepiece
cover on the factory supplied
strap. All you have to do is remove
the eye-cup and fit the cover
when doing long exposures.
EOS-1D models have a viewfinder
blind in the eyepiece, there’s a
small lever to close the blind.I s i t po s sible f or m y EO S
90D to use more than threeshots for HDR photos?
Billy Carter, GarsingtonBRIAN SAYS... There are two ways to
create HDRs with the EOS 90D. You can
use the camera’s HDR function that
creates a single JPEG from three
exposures, but that’s fixed to just three
photos. Or you can use the auto
exposure bracketing to take the shots,
then combine them in software. Choose
this method if you need more than three
frames. You can choose, five or seven
shots for auto exposure bracketing.