60 new york | march 16–29, 2020
MIZNON’S
Cauliflower
SULLIVAN STREET BAKERY’S
Pizza Pomodoro
2ND AVE DELI’S
Chicken in the Pot
Cheeseburgers of the moment come and go, but
Billy Durney’s ode to the lunchtime Peter Luger
burger is that rare beef-and-cheese combo that
manages to combine the ancient pleasures of the
form with the thrill of discovering something new.
Long before square slices were all the go, there was
Jim Lahey’s pizza pomodoro: a swipe of sweet
tomato on a caramelized crust, served at room
temp and better for it. No bells, no whistles, no
cheese, no roof-of-the-mouth burns.
RED HOOK TAVERN’S
Cheeseburger
The Japanese answer to the lobster roll: fresh
crab mixed with sriracha mayo and tobiko roe,
tucked into a slip of nori seaweed coated in
puffed rice. It’s the perfect single bite (or two, if
you’re in polite company).
NAMI NORI’S
Spicy Crab
Dynamite Roll
It takes chutzpah to name a dish “the Original World
Famous Baby Cauliflower,” but this crucifer merits the
hype: The whole head is boiled in Dead Sea–salty
water, caressed with olive oil, then roasted until the
surface is golden brown and the interior custardy.
Unadulterated, potent, and delivered to your door
in a glass jar. That is the golden elixir known as
chicken in the pot: heady broth, half a kosher bird,
thick slices of carrot, chewy “flake” noodles, and a
spongy, schmaltzy matzo ball. Common colds
cower in its presence.
SPANISH DINER’S
Huevos Rotos
Casa Lucio
Full English breakfast, Spanish style: olive-oil-
fried eggs lounging on fat fries that soak up the
runny yolks like hyperactive sponges. Around the
plate goes a meaty wreath of Spanish pork
product: ham, chistorra, morcilla. You’ll never
miss the Heinz baked beans.
THE GRILL’S
Prime Rib
Dry-rubbed, spit-roasted for hours, rubbed again,
then finished in the oven before being wheeled to
the table in a carving cart and served in brisket jus
under a faint shaving of fresh horseradish.
SAINT JULIVERT FISHERIE’S
Crispy Tuna Bake
Imagine your mother’s tuna casserole with a globe-
trotting spirit and an enhanced surface area.
There’s turmeric and curry leaf in the tomato
sauce, oil-cured tuna mingled among the noodles,
and a shallow pan to ensure maximum crunch.
The dip is made from house-whipped mayonnaise
and spoonfuls of crème fraîche, a touch of sherry,
veal stock, and dehydrated onions also made from
scratch. But the key is the golden, crunchy
housemade chips. And yes, it’ s more or less
impossible to eat just one.
TAK ROOM’S
Chips and Dip
when to get it BREAKFAST BRUNCH LUNCH SNACK DINNER LATE-NIGHT DESSERT GROCERY
BEST of NEW YORK
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60 newyork| march16–29, 2020
MIZNON’S
Cauliflower
SULLIVANSTREETBAKERY’S
PizzaPomodoro
2NDAVEDELI’S
ChickeninthePot
Cheeseburgersofthemomentcomeandgo, but
BillyDurney’s odetothelunchtimePeterLuger
burgeris that rarebeef-and-cheesecombothat
managestocombinetheancientpleasuresofthe
formwiththethrillofdiscoveringsomethingnew.
Longbeforesquaresliceswereallthego, therewas
JimLahey’spizzapomodoro:a swipeofsweet
tomatoona caramelizedcrust, servedat room
tempandbetterforit.No bells,nowhistles,no
cheese,noroof-of-the-mouthburns.
REDHOOKTAVERN’S
Cheeseburger
TheJapaneseanswertothelobsterroll:fresh
crabmixedwithsrirachamayoandtobiko roe,
tuckedintoa slipofnoriseaweedcoatedin
puffedrice.It’stheperfectsinglebite(ortwo,if
you’reinpolitecompany).
NAMINORI’S
SpicyCrab
DynamiteRoll
It rld
Fa the
y
w he
surfaceis goldenbrownandtheinteriorcustardy.
Unadulterated,potent,a deliveredtoyour door
ina glassjar. Thatis thegldenelixirknown as
chickeninthepot:headybroth,halfa kosher bird,
thickslicesofcarrot,chewy“flake”noodles,and a
spongy,schmaltzymatzoball.Commoncolds
cowerinitspresence.
SPANISHDINER’S
HuevosRotos
CasaLucio
FullEnglishbreakfst, Spanishstyle:olive-oil-
friedeggsloungingonfat friesthat soakupthe
runnyyolkslike hyperactivesponges.Aroundthe
plategoesa meaty wreathofSpanishpork
product:ham,chistorra,morcilla.You’llnever
misstheHeinzbakedbeans.
THEGRILL’S
PrimeRib
Dry-rubbed,spit-roastedforhours,rubbedagain,
thenfinishedintheovenbeforebeingwheeledto
thetableina carvingcart andservedinbrisketjus
undera faintshavingoffreshhorseradish.
SAINTJULIVERTFISHERIE’S
CrispyTunaBake
Imagineyourmothers tunacasserolewitha g o e-
trottingspiritandanenhancedsurfacearea.
There’sturmericandcurryleafinthetomato
sauce,oil-curedtunamingledamongthenoodles,
anda shallowpantoensuremaximumcrunch.
Thedipis madefr ppedmayonnaise
andspoonfulsofcrèmefraîche,a touchofsherry,
vealstock,anddehydratedonionsalsomadefrom
scratch.Butthekeyis thegolden,crunchy
housemadechips.Andyes,it’ s moreorless
impossibletoeatjust one.
TAKROOM’S
ChipsandDip
whentogetit BREAKFAST BRUNCH LUNCH SNACK DINNER LATE-NIGHT DESSERT GROCERY
BEST of NEW YORK