The Edinburgh Reporter January 2023

(EdinReporter) #1

17


Pretty in pink


Cosmo World Buffet serves up a tasty global spread


Culinary delights in the capital with Juliet Lawrence Wilson

Feast of flavours


HAPPY NEW YEAR food lovers! Hope
you’re all enjoying the gym for the first two
weeks and the all you can eat buffet for the
other fifty. On the subject of AYCE, I’m
recently asked by several chums where to
take hyperactive kiddywinks or ravenous
teenage boys with stomachs as big as their
miserly pockets.
I frequently take my daughter out for
fancy meals but that’s easy because she’s an
only child and has my full attention.
Parents with multiple children don’t find it
quite so simple to either have a relaxed
meal or pleasing all their entourage’s


whimsical tastes. With that in mind I dined
en famille at Cosmo World Buffet. Now
‘world’ was a misnomer as there were no
roolmop herring or carp on the menu but
to their credit an enthusiastic array of
Asian, Italian and Brit foods. I found the
Chinese food to be very tasty, particularly
the satay beef and the falling off the
bone ribs.
The children in our party enjoyed the
simple act of going up and choosing an
array of different things to try and the
hungriest amongst us were more than
sated. People can be snooty about buffet

dining but Cosmo did have a lively and
enjoyable atmosphere we appreciated, and
the young ones weren’t expected to sit still
for more than a couple of minutes. They
also pick up the empty plates at breakneck
speed so nobody need feel guilty about
leaving something not to their taste.
The teppanyaki station and the never-
ending font of ice cream were both much
appreciated features. Children under
155cm are charged sprogs’ rates, so if the
anti-wrinkle cream I got from Santa works
a miracle, I’m 2.5 cm in the clear!
Cosmo-restaurants.co.uk

MANY OF US SEEK a New year makeover but The
Crolla Group decided to give their well established La
Favorita restaurant on Leith Walk a pre-Christmas one
and Antonietta was born. My oh my, have they gone for
it - Antonietta ain’t a shy lass. With orange and pink
tones just about everywhere you look, Mediterranean
tiles and prints, it’s the Amalfi Coast on acid.
That said, we are in Scotland and I don’t fancy some
of the upholstery’s chances with the eventual onslaught
of the summer fake tan brigade. It’s all practically a
public service as nothing could be more of an antidote
to the dreary and frustrating sight of Leith Walk in the
winter. It’s the sort of thing I’d often dislike but what
makes the décor work is the tableware.
The ceramics put in front of you are simply joyful. No
two are alike and the vibrancy of colour and detail
celebrate the food rather than distract from it. And
what food it is! A fiesta of flavour. We started with
Carpaccio Cipriani and a Mozzarella in Carrozza.
The beef was meltingly tender and the accompanying
Rocket, Parmesan and Cipriani sauce, zingily fresh.
The mozzarella was served like a deep fried toastie and
all the better for that, with plenty of house sugo to
dunk it in. Although these are classed as small plates,
either could have served as a main course for me.
Main courses included Sole Mezze Mafaldine. The
rich blush tomato cream and basil sauce with tasty
pancetta enveloped the pasta, and When Two Romans
Meet Pizza, cacio and pepe sauce topped with
delightful pancetta and creamy deep fried egg yolks.
Once again excellent cooking and with a modern twist.
The emphasis is certainly on flavour and quality.
Stuffed though we were, we managed to force over a
couple of scoops of Salted Caramel and Hazelnut
Chocolate ice cream, both of which tasted like proper
high end gelato. The portions are more than generous,
or in common parlance: ‘you won’t be needing a chippy
on the way home’. I’m sure all the lovely ceramics must
be paid for but it doesn’t seem to be hidden in the price:
Antonietta is a reasonable date and ought to put that
on her Tinder profile. With pasta dishes starting at £9.
and Pizzas, £10, something special doesn’t break the
bank. The service is young and whilst efficient, carefree. I
enjoyed the pop music too, it’s all designed to be happy.
Sadly Hogmanay welcomes in the worst part of
winter in Scotland so if you fancy a dose of sunshine
Anonietta will deliver.
Antoniettaedinburgh.co.uk
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