Amateur Gardening – 20 July 2019

20 JULY 2019AMATEUR GARDENING 41

Anne Swithinbank’s masterclass on:clematis issues

Q

Why won’t my clematis thicken out

and flower? I planted it against a

rose, but it just makes wispy stems and

not the great cloud of bloom I wanted to

complement and extend the flowering

of the rose. What can I do?

Sammy Dent, Bristol, Somerset

A

There are many different sorts of

clematis, but I’m guessing yours

is either a large-flowered hybrid

blooming in May and June

with a smaller show in

September, or one with

abundant but slightly

smaller flowers opening

from late June to

October. Clematis are

needy plants and, in most

gardens, demand regular

feeding, mulching and

pruning before they’ll deliver

the display you are looking for.

First, it would be worth revisiting

the planting process. The best times are

spring and early autumn, to well-drained

soil where roots will be shaded and cool

and heads will be in the sun. Invest in a

well-grown plant, and make sure roots

are thoroughly soaked beforehand.

Condition the planting area with

well-rotted compost or manure, and dig

the hole 3ft (90cm) from rose roots so

there will be no competition for water

and nutrients. Untangle congested roots

and place in the hole so the top of the

rootball is 2-3in (5-8cm) below soil level

for mid-season hybrids, and

just below the surface for

the later types. Fork a

compound fertiliser or

seaweed meal into the

infill soil. Stems can

grow from below

soil level to help with

structure or regrowth

after slug attack or

clematis wilt.

In the first February

or March after planting,

both types should be pruned

12in (30cm) above ground, and above

growth buds to make them branch.

Train the resulting stems horizontally.

What’s wrong with my clematis?

is either a large-flowered hybrid

blooming in May and June

pruning before they’ll deliver

the display you are looking for.

First, it would be worth revisiting

for mid-season hybrids, and

just below the surface for

the later types. Fork a

compound fertiliser or

seaweed meal into the

infill soil. Stems can

grow from below

soil level to help with

structure or regrowth

after slug attack or

clematis wilt.

In the first February

orMarch after planting,

both types should be pruned

In early spring, I fed and mulched

our roses and peonies, but forgot

the clematis – so it’s time

to play catch-up

Body image: Alamy. All other photography John Swithinbank / TI Media, unless credited

Seek out clematis and weed

around them carefully, being sure

not to disturb stems and roots. If

roots are in sun, add groundcover

plants to create shade.

Summer care

for clematis

Provide twiggy sticks or canes to

encourage stems towards the rose.

Give the plant a general-purpose

liquid feed now on moist soil, and

again in three weeks’ time.

Mulch over the roots with well-

rotted garden compost, but keep

the stems clear. In future, feed and

mulch every February/March.

Anne’s

top tips

Pruning an established clematis

IN February or March, you should prune back

the top growth of May/June flowering hybrids

lightly, to the topmost pair of fat buds. Tie in stems

as horizontally as possible in order to encourage

side growths.

The later flowering kinds (mostly cultivars

of Clematis x jackmanii or C. viticella) are

pruned at the same time, but harder. Cut away

any tangly top growth to within a node of the

older wood low down.

Pruning an established clematis

Clematis x jackmanii

benefi ts from a hard

pruning in late winter

Untangle congested

clematis roots before

placing in the soil hole

Plant mid-season clematis hybrids

like ‘Natascha’ so the top of the

rootball is 2-3in (5-8cm) below soil level

Inset: Alamy

Prune Group 3 clematis

to the top pair of fat buds