TABLE TALK
I go weak at the knees for a proper
German Riesling (there’s something
about the kerosene aroma I can’t get
enough of – it’s a thing). Riesling is also
known for having a slightly sweeter side,
which is balanced perfectly by its naturally
higher acidity. When it comes to reds,
I’m relishing Grenache. It’s called the “poor
man’s Pinot Noir” because it’s just as light
and easy-drinking as Pinot, but much
moreaffordable.
A rising star in the wine biz is Charla
Haasbroek of Sijnn Wines. She’s one of the
most down-to-earth, hardworking women
I know. And that’s saying something,
considering she is currently eight months
pregnant and still running a cellar team
outinMalgaslikea boss.
As someone who is still discovering
(and we all are), I think single-varietal wines
are a great way to learn about a grape’s
characteristics and figure out what you like.
But the true art of winemaking is the
blending skill of the winemaker – it’s
no easy feat to determine the exact
percentages of different varieties to create
a wine that’s more enjoyable than the
varieties on their own. That’s where the
magic happens. Blends are typically better
withfood,butthat’sforyoutodecide.
If you’re ever left with a bottle of
unfinished wine after a quiet Tuesday
night in, pour the remaining wine into an
ice tray and pop it into the freezer, ready
to use the next time a recipe calls for some
wine. If you really want to store an opened
bottle, be sure to cork it with its original
cork or with a tight-fitting bottle-stopper.
You want to prevent oxygen from getting
into the bottle. The time frames vary
dependingonthetypeofwinebutI would
saydon’tkeepit formorethantwodays.
Myfavouriteglobaldishis
melanzaneallaparmigiana. Myhusband
andI caneasilyeattheentirethingwhile
sharinga bottleofCabernetFranc– the
hightanninsandfullbodyofthewine
cutthroughtherichnessofthedish.
Thereareneveranyleftovers!
goshco.co.za
THESOMMELIER
ANDRESTAURANT
MANAGER
Penelope
Setti,Chefs
Warehouse
Myloveofwinewassparked
whenI workedatanItalianrestaurant
calledLaGalleriainGrahamstownjust
afterfinishinghighschool.I’dhave
conversationswithmybosswhereshe’d
say:“Youcan’tsellsomethingunless
youknowit”.Soshepouredmemyfirst
properglassofwine:theAnthonijRupert
TerradelCapoSangiovese(availableat
WooliesforR99.99).I sniffedandsipped
andI justlovedit.I washooked.
There are so many misconceptions
about this job, especially if you’re a black
woman from a conservative background.
People think you’re just sitting drinking all
day. But there’s a lot you have to know –
the theory involves so much studying and
you’re always learning something new.
I’ve completed the Wine & Spirits Education
Trust (WSET) Level 3 and am starting the
diploma in August. I want my diploma
tosay“Look,see”.It’sa verification.
The great thing here is that I report
directly to restaurant owners, Jan and
Liam Tomlin. They have stepped back
and said “curate the wine list”, which is
not something sommeliers often get
to do. The idea is to showcase as many
producers as we can, so we don’t have
more than one wine from the same
farm on the list. And we don’t have any
international wines – most of our clientele
is foreign, so why do that when there
aresomanygreatlocalwines?
To be honest, I don’t really like
pairings. Your experience of what you’re
drinking will be different to mine, so
I rather ask “What do you like to drink?”.
Describe what you enjoy and I’ll then
do the pairing to suit both your personal
tastes and the food. It’s possible to drink
a very nice red wine with fish, for example.
Yes, there are some clashes, so I will gently
suggest an alternative if necessary.
I want you to have a great experience
and,perhaps,tolearnsomething.
The most versatile wine to see
you through a multi-course meal
is Sauvignon Blanc. It goes exceptionally
well with our Asian-inspired food at Chefs
Warehouse, which needs something light
and bright with citrus. Almenkerk’s are
nice and crisp and will usually go with
everything. If you prefer red, try a light
Cinsault,GrenacheorPinotNoir.
If you want to start collecting wine
find out which vintages were good – for
example 2009, 2015 and 2018 – and try
finding wines from those years. And then
certain varieties age better, so never age
Sauvignon Blanc unless it comes from
Sancerre in France. Certain wines are
made to be drunk now. Reds tend to age
better but it does depend on the year
and variety. The bigger the wine and
its tannins, the better it will age.
@whatablackgirldranklastnight
TASTE AUGUST 2019 45
THEFIZZISREAL
Here’saninsider’ssecret:theSteenbergSparklingSauvignonBlanc
availableatWoolies,R109.99)maynotbelabelledasa Méthode
CapClassiquebutthebubblesinthebottleareproduced–
accordingtothetraditionalChampagnemethod– bysecond
ermentationinthebottle.“Wewanttopreservethefreshnessof
heSauvignonBlancflavours,sothebasewineonlyspendsa short
imeinthebottle,”explainswinemakerElundaBasson.Theresult
s a light,fresh,affordablebubbly.Becausesummeris coming.
T H ( C a f t t
is
“I go weak at the knees
for a German Riesling
- there’s something
about the aroma”