2019-08-01_Elle_Australia

(lu) #1
MOODBOARD

THE NEXT


FRONTIER


F


IRS


T LOOK


IN A WORLD of Instagram over-saturation, it
takes some kind of special sauce for a designer
to break through the noise. Special, like, Daniel
Lee special – whose debut show as creative
director at Bottega Veneta was arguably the
most anticipated of the entire AW19 season. A
Phoebe Philo-era Céline alum, Lee was tasked
with awaking a “sleeping giant” (his words),
bringing the Italian leather-goods house right
into 2019. And modernise he did – not just with
his sure-to-sell-out quilted cloud pumps and
deconstructed cut-outs, but with the innovative
way he created the garments, from laser-cut
skirts to neoprene coats. In short, pieces that put
an innovative twist on the brand’s rich history
of artisanal craftsmanship, introducing the
concept of timeless luxury to a new generation.
Over at Jil Sander, husband-and-wife duo
Luke and Lucie Meier are the first couple to be
appointed as creative directors of a major
fashion brand. They’re bringing their own kind of
luxe cool to the label: Luke comes from Supreme,
while Lucie’s background includes
Louis Vuitton, Balenciaga and
Christian Dior, designing ready-
to-wear and couture.
Lee and the Meiers are
among a growing contingent of

fashion designers rethinking the future of
fashion by using technology and getting
creative with upcycled materials. Others in this
clique include French designer Marine Serre,
with sculpted parkas and head-to-
toe bodysuits born from her vision
of a new, post-apocalyptic planet
where style unites with safety.
Then there are the out-of-
this-world creations of Moncler
Genius, a series that sees
designers including Simone
Rocha, Richard Quinn and
Pierpaolo Piccioli (in collaboration
with supermodel Liya Kebede’s ethical
fashion label Lemlem) showcase avant-garde
interpretations of the iconic Moncler puffer.
In New York, Off-White is representing
fashion’s next chapter in more ways than one.
Virgil Abloh cuts and drapes traditionally
un-sexy materials, such as fleece and
faux fur, into feminine “couture-like”
shapes. But he’s also the first African-
American appointed as artistic director
at Louis Vuitton, and stages and casts
runway shows that are incredibly
inclusive. All in all? Fashion’s future never
looked so bright. E

“DESIGNERS
are rethinking
the FUTURE
of FASHION
by USING
technology”

Off-White

Off-White

Moncler 4 Simone Rocha

Bottega Veneta
A NEW GUARD OF
MUST-KNOW DESIGNERS
ARE USING INNOVATIVE TECH
TO SPEARHEAD A BRAND
OF FUTURISTIC-CHIC.
WE WANT IN

Necklace, $8,880,
BOTTEGA VENETA,
(02) 9239 0188

Jil Sander

Bottega Veneta

Bottega Veneta

Dress, $2,475,
JIL SANDER,
matchesfashion.com

Clutch, $49, NO KA’OI,
farfetch.com

Words: Grace O’Neill. Still-life styling: Nichhia Wippell.
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans; Sevak Babakhani (still-life)

Marine Serre

Shoes, $1,340,
BOTTEGA VENETA,
(02) 9239 0188
Boots, $290, COS,
cosstores.com/au/

Bag, $2,917,
OFF-WHITE C/O
VIRGIL ABLOH,
off---white.com

Off-White
Free download pdf