Total MX-5 – July 2019

(Amelia) #1

temperature. As your fuel
consumption is high I think this
is the likely cause of your
problem as the ECU will keep
the cold start settings on for
longer with a cold engine.
To check, remove the radiator
cap (engine cold) and run the
engine. You shouldn’t see much
water movement in the radiator
as you rev the engine. After a
few minutes the engine should
heat up and the thermostat
should open. At this point the
top hose and radiator start to
get hot and you will see coolant
rushing through the radiator.
If water flows through the
radiator immediately from cold
replace the thermostat and a
good heater operation should
resume. The mounting nuts are
often seized and may require
careful persuasion using heat
and something such as WD-40
on the threads to free them.


[ Q&A ]


Summer 2019 | TOTAL MX-5 |^77

Tired thermostats can get stuck
open, leading to a reduction in
heater performance and also
increasing your fuel consumption

Apparently faulty electric window
switches can be brought back to
life by scraping burnt residue off
their brass terminals: removing
them from a mk1 is a
comparatively simple operation

UPWARDLY MOBILE


Q


The driver’s side electric
window on my mk1 Eunos
has lowered but won’t come up
again. I’ve checked and can’t see
any blown fuses. Any idea what
the problem may be?

A


We see this quite often. It’s
usually a faulty window
switch: luckily you can normally
repair it. Remove the centre
console by undoing the screws
in the storage box and either
side of the centre console, then
unplug the wiring harness and
unscrew the gearknob. You can
then remove the window
switches from the console.
Carefully prise the back off
the switch. More often than not
the brass terminals will be
burnt. Cleaning these with some
emery paper will get the switch
working again. If you find a
melted mess I would
recommend a new or good used
replacement is obtained.
Unfortunately this task is not as
easy on mk2s as micro-switches
are used and the plastic
actuators tend to break so that
the switch isn’t operated when
you move the lever.

BACKING UP BLUES

Q


When I reverse my car, it
judders and vibrates badly.
It seems OK going forwards.
What could be causing this
please? It’s a mk2 1.8.

A


This is a problem you only
really find on mk2s. Strange,
as it’s the same clutch fitted to
mk1s. I can only guess that the

slightly heavier car puts more
strain on the friction plate
damper springs causing
snatching, hence the surging you
feel when reversing.
However, it’s good practice
to inspect the condition of the
engine mountings to check for
excess movement. If no other
problems can be seen then I’m
afraid a new good quality clutch
assembly should be fitted to
overcome the problem. Be
sure to mark the mounting
position of the powerplant
frame where it bolts to the
gearbox so that it goes back in
the same place, or you may
induce the gearbox rustle these
cars often suffer from.

TICKOVER TROUBLES

Q


: I have an early mk1 1.8
with a very fast tickover:

otherwise the car runs well.
What’s wrong?

A


This customer came to the
garage to see us. The first
thing we did was check for air
leaks in the induction system.
With the engine running you
can spray brake cleaner or
similar around the inlet
manifold gasket, fuel injector
seals and vacuum pipes. If the
engine revs change while doing
this, you have an air leak. This
can raise the idle speed and the
offending gasket or seal must be
replaced.
If this reveals no problems,
check that the throttle
butterfly is closing to its stop
and that the idle screw has not
been opened too far (look in a
workshop manual for basic
settings). On this car you could
wind the idle screw fully shut
and still the revs were at around
1200rpm.
Next we looked at the idle
control valve. You can disable
this valve by bridging the GND
and TEN terminals in the
diagnostic box. Doing this
should drop the tickover
significantly. If not, the idle
solenoid mounted under the
throttle body may not be
working.
Remove it and try powering
the solenoid with 12 volts
briefly; it should make a clicking
sound when you power it. In the
case of this car it was faulty. A
good secondhand replacement
immediately cured the problem.

A fast tickover on a mk1 1.8 was eventually traced to a faulty idle solenoid
on the underside of the throttle body. A replacement cured the problem

Juddering in reverse is a problem suffered only by mk2s, and is probably
a sign the clutch needs replacing, though do check engine mounts, too
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