46 SOLITAIRE INTERNATIONAL JULY 2018
charge—and ruby, with some designers
adding emeralds and morganite to the mix.
Pearls are omnipresent. Among the more
interesting designs were those featuring
freshwater pearls set with gemstones as
well as wonderful pieces featuring baroque
pearls of all types. Very tiny and unusual
seed pearls from Japan provided the basis
for a number of unique jewels.
W hile metal hoop earrings are
perennial favourites, quite a few hoops
are set with gemstones in a variety of
innovative styles. Also on the agenda at
many designer brands are long dangling
pieces, many with asymmetrical sides.
Edgy jewellery is seen in pieces ranging
from “cyclone” fence loops and sharp
points to skulls and snakes of every sort
in both men’s and ladies’ jewellery. On
the other side of the coin, evil eye jewels
protect the wearer.The biggest increase in a category
of jewellery this year has been in the
number of reversible, transformable and
expandable jewels. Available in rings,
bracelets, pendants or earrings, creative
ways to change jewels from one form to
another or add comfort while wearing
these original pieces are a welcome
addition to any jewellery wardrobe.Show reactions
As with all shows, the range of
expectations varied considerably. With
my time split between the Couture
show, followed by the Las Vegas Antique
Jewelry & Watch Show, JCK show and the
AGTA GemFair, the difference in mood
was palpable. Opinions at Couture were
generally—but not always—positive,
not only with repeat business, but also
with new contacts. Stephen Webster, of
his eponymous brand, summed up many
of the sentiments: “Brilliant show! We
saw our biggest international clients; this
is the best show in the world; nothing
compares.” An exhibitor who returned
to Couture after a brief absence, Italian
designer Alessio Boschi also enthused that
Couture was a success for him, with many
new contacts made.Indian brand Amrapali pays
tribute to Surya with these
gold rings featuring two
unusual-cut gemstones
accented with diamonds.French designer Lydia
Courteille looked to the
mysterious Nazca lines—giant
geoglyphs located in the
Peruvian coastal plain south
of Lima—for inspiration for
her gold Nazca earrings.
One of the most creative uses of baroque
pearls was displayed by Italian designer
Alessio Boschi with this large gemstone and
diamond-set shark brooch. The dangling
earrings of different lengths can have the
strands separated from the top for a different
look. Concerned about the future of these
magnificent creatures, Boschi is donating
part of the sale price to an organisation
devoted to saving the sharks.Message jewellery was popular
especially the Evil Eye category as
exemplified by this “evil eye” pendant
in gold, diamonds and gems by USA-
based designer, Jacquie Aiche.Ruby and gold
pendant by
Gemfields in
collaboration
with @Muse.Two-finger rings are still on-trend as in
this colourful gold and amethyst piece
from Italian brand, Moraglione.