But smoke from the massive number of forest fires
burning throughout the province continued to obscure
much of the scenery, often making photos and video
impossible. Once we arrived, a much-welcomed pizza
and beer fest helped to get the humor and storytelling
flowing again.
We briefly stopped at Hope Slide, the site of the
largest landslide ever recorded in Canada, and then
rode into the town of Hope itself, one of a number
of quaint little towns nestled in the foothills of the
Rockies, with no shortage of things to see, such as
wood carvings and Native American totems. We walked
for miles taking it all in. But it was especially exciting
heading over to Vancouver Island on a 95-minute B.C.
ferry crossing from Vancouver to Victoria, across open
ocean and through the protected Active Pass. Along the
way can be spotted humpback and killer whales, eagles
as they searched for prey, and seals dotting the rocks as
they sunbathed.
Vancouver Island is a wee bit touristy, not necessarily
a bad thing, but there are many other adventures to be
had in the area. We would need to dedicate an entire
article to the backroads on the island to do it justice.
They call it the wild west coast for a reason, and once
you get off the beaten path, it is just that. Best have
a sat phone or Spot if you decide to venture past the
tourist traps.
Tofino and Ucluelet are a must-see on Vancouver
Island. Nuzzled at the end of one of the most incred-
ible yet dangerous highways, and only 60km (37 miles)apart along the west coast, they are vastly different. A third
of the way up the Island, transecting east to west, Highway
4 is 160km (100 miles) of tree-lined straight stretches, tight
gnarly cornering, roadside waterfalls, and home to some
of the world’s largest cedar trees. As you pass through
Cathedral Grove you will feel at one with nature as trees
measuring 75m (250 ft.) in height and 9m (29 ft.) in circum-
ference create a passageway along the Pacific Rim Highway.
Tofino boasts sandy beaches and wild waves, making
it Canada’s No. 1 surf city. Its famous Long Beach attracts
tourists from all over to surf, exchange nuptials or simply
storm watch during the winter months when Mother Nature
is at her most unpredictable. Chesterman’s and McKenzie
beach offer miles of soft sand for those that prefer to stroll.
On the other hand, Ukee (as it is known) boasts a rugged
coastline sporting a beautiful lighthouse and the much-
hiked Wild Pacific Trail, Lighthouse Loop. Both have a small
population of residents who are welcoming to visitors and
are a wealth of knowledge about the local cuisine, accom-
modations and attractions.
At the suggestion of one of the residents, we took a short
hike to the wreckage field of a Royal Canadian Air Force
Canso 11007 that crashed shortly after takeoff on February
8, 1945. It was a bit tricky to get to, we had to count
utility poles to find the path, but once we found
the location, the downed WWII aircraft was
impressive. Definitely worth checking
out if you are in the area.Our group of intrepid adventurers
waiting out a sudden hailstorm on68 July/August 2019 the way to Tete Jaune Cache.