The Great Outdoors – August 2019

Map: David Langworth

gear, and clothing more suited to a Scottish winter than an Alpine
summer jaunt – wisely for the conditions, as it had turned out.
But on a warm and sunny September day in 2017 I set out with
summer walking gear and a light day pack, my only concession to
the Alpine nature of my objective a pair of Microspikes.
The weather was gorgeous as I climbed through larches and
pines above the town. I kept up a good pace and found the walk-in
much easier than I had ten years before, thanks to a better overall
level of fitness. Looking back to enjoy those familiar views, my
emotions were of joy tinged with a trace of nostalgia. The last time
I’d trodden that path so much seemed to be beginning, whereas
now I was in the middle of my life – and those heady ambitions
of 2007 had never been fully realised. While my brother and I
had gone on to climb many 4000m peaks, and other routes in the
Alps and Scotland, my focus on summits and technical difficulty
had been left behind as my interests veered towards lightweight
backpacking. I certainly didn’t feel old as I paced uphill, but I did
feel older.
Soon I entered the wasteland of the Triftchumme, filled with
rust-coloured scree. This time my attention turned more to
the rocky summit of Platthorn directly above than to the more
impressive 4000ers to my left. Platthorn (3344m) is Mettelhorn’s
neighbour. It dominates the walk-in and only upon reaching the

more serious proposition after

recent snowfall

Route notes: This is a steep and

strenuous walk throughout,

although the paths are good until

well into the second half of the

ascent. The Trift Berggasthaus

at 2337m makes a good halt at

about halfway. After reaching the

col at almost 3200m, there’s a

short glacier crossing – crampons

recommended in dry late-season

conditions – followed by a final

steep climb on scree to an isolated

summit with splendid views.

Retrace your steps back to Zermatt.

THE ASCENT OF

METTELHORN

START/FINISHZermatt town centre

Distance: 19.4km/12 miles

Ascent: 1895m/6217ft

Maps: Zermatt – Gornergrat

Swisstopo 1:25,000

sheet 2515

Transport: Zermatt is easily

accessible by train from Visp.

The town is car-free; if arriving by

road, park at Täsch and take the

train from there

Guidebook: Walking in the

Alps: 120 Walks and Treks by

Kev Reynolds (Cicerone Press)

i

Time of year: Mettelhorn is a

summer hike, best tackled

from July to September. It’s a far

The Great Outdoors August 2019 69