The Great Outdoors – August 2019

(Barry) #1

Judy Armstrong checks out a choice of lighter footwear for less demanding conditions


82 The Great OutdoorsAugust 2019

Lightweight boots


I


I love lightweight boots. I wear them all
year round given a choice, only switching
to sturdier, stiffer footwear for deep mud,
tougher scrambling routes, snow or ice, or
with a hefty backpack. Lightweight tends to
mean three-season (i.e. not winter), but to me
it’s more about how they feel on the feet.
If you’re wearing the right ones, you will
barely notice them. They’ll have a natural,
soft flex, which is less tiring on soles and
tendons. The trade-off is usually less lateral
rigidity (so it’s harder to support yourself
on the edge of the boot) and less density
underfoot (so with less shock absorption
on consistently difficult or sharp-rock
terrain). But it’s possible to have the best of
both worlds: forward flex with enough side
support for easy-grade scrambling and via
ferrata, for example.
Construction plays a major part in

Meindl
Tonale Lady GTX

£210 896g (size 4)

flex, support, low weight, comfort,
construction, grip

nothing

Uppers: suede leather, mesh, Gore-Tex lining
Mid/outsole: Meindl Vibram dual-
density rubber, EVA midsole
Sizes: 3.5-8 (men 6-12)
meindl.co.uk

This boot, new to Meindl’s extensive range this
year, was a real surprise. It looks like a hefty four-
season number, cut high enough for two well-
spaced ankle hooks plus a full rubber rand. But
it feels so light and dextrous on the feet, with a
natural flex combined with all-round support; it’s
confidence-inspiring and a pleasure to wear. This
is due to several factors. One is the construction:
suede for lateral support, with mesh over the
tongue to reduce heat retention and to minimise

WOMEN’S


this. Weight is saved through slimmer,
less insulated sole units, fabric and suede
rather than heavy-duty leather for uppers,
and less complex/lighterweight midsoles.
While uppers, midsole and sole units are the
obvious major components, lacing systems
should not be underestimated. It is intensely
irritating to have to adjust every lace line
through every loop every time; slim laces
that slide through eyelets, ideally with a
hook lock-off, offer accurate adjustment and
therefore greater comfort. Likewise, cuff
height makes a difference, as stiffer boots
need higher cuffs to help secure the heel, and
a decent dip at the back to avoid pressure on
the lower Achilles tendon.
Some brands consider lightweight boots
to be entry level, so use less sophisticated
construction or materials. Others replace
quality leathers and suedes entirely with

Features



  1. Fit
    This is equally as important in a lightweight
    boot as in a heavier version. The critical points
    are to have an anchored (not pinched, but
    not loose) heel, a secure forefoot that does
    not compress your toes, and support (not
    compression) along the sides.

  2. Flex
    Lightweight boots are flexible front to back, and
    laterally; they are inherently more comfortable
    than stiffer boots that make the soles of your
    feet and Achilles tendons tire more rapidly.
    Uppers with suede/leather lacing platforms will
    often flex where the fabrics join (not necessarily
    where you want it). Check the flex point by
    trying to bend the boot in half (toe toward cuff):
    see if it bends with a rounded flex or sharply to
    a specific point. If that specific point matches
    where your foot flexes (just back from your toes)
    it’ll be comfortable; if not, go with a rounded flex.

  3. Support
    The soft cuffs on lightweight boots usually skim
    the ankle; the height is for comfort and security


rather than support. Underfoot support is
more important; good boots will have a shaped,
supportive footbed; flat footbeds should be
replaced with good removable insoles (I use
Orthosole). Sidewall support / torsional stability
is very important on steeper, technical terrain.


  1. Lacing
    Laces should run smoothly for accurate
    adjustment, comfort and fit. Metal eyelets and
    hooks offer fluid lace movement; fabric loops
    are cheaper but generally make laces harder to
    adjust as they can stick rather than slide. Angled
    ankle eyelets or hooks help to anchor the heel.

  2. Sole unit
    A narrow tread pattern is more likely to get
    choked with mud and debris; a wider pattern
    will self-clean more readily. A sole with a
    squared-off heel front edge will offer better
    purchase on descents. Very hard rubber
    will grip less on wet rock but last longer on
    rugged terrain. Rounded lugs offer grip on
    dry ground only.


textiles, and then add padding to build the
boot, which generally results in too much
insulation, not enough airflow and a floppy
upper. Both these approaches are mistaken,
in my opinion: a hillwalker’s three-season
boot, such as Meindl’s Tonale or Scarpa’s
ZG Trek, has inherently similar features to
a winter-weight boot – Vibram sole unit,
reinforced heel and toe boxes, accurate
lacing system and sturdy yet supple uppers –
but with more flex and therefore maximum
comfort. You get what you pay for in boots,
and lightweights are no exception.
The best in this test have proven ideal for
scrambling, trekking, hillwalking and summer
mountaineering. The energy saved through
lifting less weight with each step, and the
comfort of forward flex, have undoubtedly
made those hill experiences more enjoyable


  • and isn’t that why we do it?


Gear comparative review

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