St. Louis Magazine – July 2019

ĔĖ stlmag.com July 2019 Photography by Kevin A. Roberts

TASTE MAIN COURSE

If it were any closer

to Anheuser-Busch’s

home, there’d be

Clydesdales slurp-

ing old-fashioneds

at the bar. Oaked

occupies the space

formerly occupied

by Lynch Street Tav-

ern, Sage, and Fleur

de Lilies. The build-

ing has been lovingly

remodeled to com-

bine the old with the

hip. The shadowy first

floor is in the mode of

lounge swank, with

restrained lighting

and an inviting bar.

Intimate seating and

a piano occupy a roomy alcove. Serious

dining is done on the second story, which

boasts a luminously polished wood floor,

soaring ceilings, and spacious seating.

There are patios upstairs (devoted to

cigar rituals—yes, a trifle swish) and on

the first floor (for cocktails in a serene

setting, surrounded by redbrick walls).

Small plates dominate the menu.

Even the tenderloin and salmon are

modestly portioned—you’ll likely want

at least three items for a complete din-

ner. Nothing is ordinary here. Presen-

tations are elaborate but not fussy. A

salad of asparagus—parboiled spears

accompanied by an emerald filigree

of shavings—is a minor work of art. A

blob of burrata, a pile of pale-pink pro-

sciutto, pickled onion, and egg, as beau-

tiful as they are delicious, are pleasantly

arranged. “Spicy greens” are that and

more. A white miso vinaigrette has a

kick; onion, shredded carrot, pine nuts,

and a soft pickled egg are topped with

the lightest sprinkling of salt that draws

the components together.

Crusty toasts topped with a pungent

tapenade are fine, but spring for the

cheese-and-charcuterie plate, another

composition on a slate slab, this one

comprising three cheeses and a couple

of meats with chutney and mustard—

both sculpture and starter.

Fettuccine is a standout among the

limited pasta options. Thick balsamic

vinegar is swirled around the

bowl’s lip; it seeps down into

house-made noodles comple-

mented with cherry tomatoes,

shredded basil, pine nuts, and

more of that creamy burrata.

Gnudi’s a pasta seldom served

commercially, with good reason:

The combination of ricotta and

semolina require precise timing

 O

AKED HAS A PROBLEM. It
wants to host “elevated”
dining in a “sophisticated
setting”—which, in our
age, is a challenge commensurate with
inviting crocodiles over for tea. Sophisti-
cated dining does not need to announce
that it’s sophisticated, and such self-
descriptors as “a curated dining experi-
ence” are more embarrassing than pre-
possessing. Nonetheless, Oaked is aces
in terms of overall experience, food, and
atmosphere.

THE BOTTOM LINE
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Oaked

1031 Lynch

314-305-8647

oakedstl.com

Dinner Wed–Sun

Double-Barreled

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BY DAVE LOWRY

The cheese-and-charcuterie

board includes a variety of

select meats and cheeses, along

with fresh accoutrements.