July 2019 stlmag.com Ĕė
of chilling to keep it from crumbling when
cooked. Oaked’s version, tossed with pork
and mushrooms in a simple broth, does
gnudi justice.
A chunk of roasted salmon rests on
succotash splashed with what tastes
like a salty, savory broth of Japanese
dashi. Again, it’s a final touch, this time
a sprinkling of salmon roe, that lends the
dish polish. Short ribs braised to suc-
culent tenderness are matched with
braised Brussels sprouts and beans in
a hearty broth. Order the tenderloin, and
you might expect a prime piece of beef,
pink with a nicely caramelized crust. You
get exactly that, but what you might not
expect is that the side, parsnips puréed
to a velvety consistency, rivals the ten-
derloin for your admiration. The humble
root, accompanied by just a couple of
slender carrots, is superbly presented.
With the steak, it makes for a satisfy-
ing meal.
Given its length, the dizzying wine
list might be mistaken for a Gutenberg
Bible. It’s competently compiled, but
what really sets it apart is the number
of vintages available by the glass. Wine
locker rental is available for $300 a year.
Whiskey is a specialty as well, with doz-
ens of labels on hand. The spot in which
to enjoy a drink? The upstairs nook,
with upholstered seating and a clubby
feel. (Although you’ll wait in vain for the
Punch & Judy show to commence from
behind the odd curtained bar, the whis-
key’s great.)
Black curtains are big here. They’re
hanging over the windows and used in
lieu of doors. Apparently it’s meant to
invoke a speakeasy atmosphere, which
is cute in a sort of Battle of Britain black-
out way. It makes climbing the dark
stairs a funhouse challenge. Speaking
of those stairs, the service is swell, espe-
cially when you consider that everything
must be schlepped from the first to the
second floor. The staff here must be at
a uniformly Olympic caliber of fitness.
Some too-too excesses make Oaked
amusing to razz. Serious diners, how-
ever, will smile much more over the
excellent food and drink.
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