ýý STLMAG.COM JULY 2019 Photography by Kevin A. Roberts
HIDDEN GEM
Peno Soul Food
On a side street at the south-
ern end of Wydown’s restau-
rant strip, Pepe Kehm’s cozy
spot is somewhat hidden but
well worth discovering. The
neighborhood-centric tratto-
ria is the new equivalent of the
checked-tablecloth restaurants
of yore. The pizza’s good, but
Kehm’s particularly gifted when
it comes to seafood, maybe as a
result of his trips to Sicily.
7600 Wydown.DINING & NIGHTLIFEʼn ŤŦĽ
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HYPERLOCAL CUISINE
Bulrush
“Hyperlocal” is a new buzzword
in restaurant circles, but at Bul-
rush, chef-owner Rob Connoley
lives the age-old concept. He
uses only foods that are season-
ally grown, foraged, and pre-
served within a narrowly defined
geographic area. He’s explored
the history of the Ozarks, creat-
ing intriguing dishes that incor-
porate the best practices of the
past. “I’m not a nostalgic per-
son,” he says, “but I look at what
people did here in the 1800s and
ask, ‘Why aren’t we doing this
anymore?’ Then we do it.”
3307 Washington.